Trilogy will soon be for sale. At this writing in mid-March 2022, we are preparing this great boat for sale. The wonderful trailer will be offered for sold separately. Why? We needed a bit larger living space to adapt to the changes in our lives.
See the photos for this section at www.tribute-kadeykrogen39.com/Trilogy-out other boat.
Summary: Towed the tug from Charlotte, North Carolina and launched near Cleveland, Ohio. From Lake Erie, followed the Erie Canal eastward from Buffalo to Oswego, New York, Began the Rideau Canal at Kingston, Ontario and went through Ottawa, Montreal and connected to New York's Lake Champlain. Pickup the Erie Canal near Albany, New York, crossed Lake Ontario for the second time and travelled the Trent Severn Waterway that ended at Lake Huron in Midland, Ontario. Pulled the boat and towed it to Brunswick, Georgia to stage for a springtime trip.
Trip Numbers: 56 cruising days, 187 locks transited, 1,625 miles traveled, average daily miles traveled was 30, 16 days at free walls, docks or anchored, and the average cost per day of cruising was $112. Road trip: 7,300 miles driven, 12 national park sites visited, and stayed at KOAs and a few pet friendly hotels.
Trip Numbers: 56 cruising days, 187 locks transited, 1,625 miles traveled, average daily miles traveled was 30, 16 days at free walls, docks or anchored, and the average cost per day of cruising was $112. Road trip: 7,300 miles driven, 12 national park sites visited, and stayed at KOAs and a few pet friendly hotels.
ROAD TRIP: Millie, our 12 year old rescue cat would be making her first long road road trip and trip on Trilogy. She is a great boat cat and is very adaptable. For the 7 days, national park sities were visited including Little Bighorn National Historical Site, Badlands National Park, Mount Rushmore National Monument and Great Smoky National Park, the nights were split between hotels and KOA's camping cabins. The new to us Dodge 3/4 truck was very comfortable for long distance traveling.
Sunday, June 24. After leaving the Great Smoky Mountains, Huntersville, North Carolina was an easy drive to get to Trilogy on her trailer. The tug was hooked up at 4 PM and Laurie announced that the boat trip had started.. We had traveled 3,200 miles to get her, including the stops and touring along the way. Aside from the dirt and leaves, Trilogy was in surprising good shape. There was no mold and the three Dry-Ease buckets were full of water. The solar panel had kept the house battery at 86% and the engine battery full. 45 minutes later, we were headed north on I-77 and Laurie announced that the “boat trip” had started. The night’s stop was at the KOA in Wytheville, Virginia because it was close to the freeway and had a pull through spot that was over 60 feet long.
LAKE ERIE FROM GENEVA, OHIO TO BUFFALO, NEW YORK: Start of the boat trip
The KOA manager posted a photo of Trilogy on their Facebook page because it was the first boat to use their park as a recreational vehicle. Breakfast was the first meal aboard. The morning was spent cleaning the hull with a very mild acid to remove all the stains, buffing out the stubborn stains and putting on two coats of polish. The boat had not been cleaned since St. Petersburg in February. Nearly a month of boating, 500 miles of road travel, three months in a storage yard and another 500 miles on the road created the need for a lot of cleaning.
Leaving in the early afternoon, the propane tank was filled, 65 gallons of diesel filled Trilogy’s tank and another 20 gallons filled the truck’s tank. The ramp at Geneva State Park was perfect for Trilogy. An hour was spent rigging her for water travel with lines, fenders, canvas, plugs in and straps off. She glided into the water, the diesel immediately came to life and all the electronics came up easily. The harbormaster directed to tie us up behind a large boat on the transient dock and as we got closer, serendipity was experienced because we knew Calypso Poet from last fall’s trip on the Tennessee River and the owner’s Gary and Colleen.
The afternoon was closed with more boat preparations, organizing, cleaning and a brief chat with Gary and Colleen and a promise to visit tomorrow when the weather would be keeping the boats in port.
The next day pockets of intense rain swept through the harbor making it a good work inside and do errands day. The medium sized plastic bin containing all the parts for various projects identified from our last trip was emptied. The projects completed included replacing the CO detector, adding two electronic cart chips, fixing the outside sensor of the weather station and swapping the dehumidifier with a portable air conditioner that had a dehumidifier function. This last project was intended to a degree of comfort when connected to shore power. This also had the tipping affect of requiring a re-assignment of spaces as the air conditioner would dominate the port side corner storage space.
Another large project was replacing the cockpit’s side canvas, screens and windows that were not usable with a fine mesh material that was excellent at shade and bug protection and would stop 80% of rainwater. Our favorite canvas shop, Leta's Top Shop in Arlington, Washington, used the old side curtains as a template but we would need to install the snaps to match the locations of those on the boat. Before the heavy rains from the south started, one of the panels was installed.
We enjoyed drinks and snacks with Gary and Colleen and they told stories of their second Great Loop adventure. A couple of take-a-way comments from them: “Shut up and be grateful.” Meaning to accept the gifts of the moment and to be socially aware may include not expressing an opinion that creates conflict. “Being plugged into nature” means more watching the weather forecasts, wind and tides as those drive the decision making process more than any other factors.
Thursday, June 28. Gary and Colleen were supposed to leave but the wind kept all the boats in port for most of the day. Laurie did errands in the truck while I fabricated a window mount for the air conditioner’s vent hose. Using hand tools and the dock as a workbench, the project was finished by mid-morning. Laurie returned and the rest of the day was cleaning the cabin and roof, cleaning all the stainless rails, putting the folding bikes on the roof, cleaning the windows, and servicing the wiper arms that were clogged with salt and grime.
Went into the Town of Geneva twice for parts for the air conditioner project only because the Ace Hardware was only 15 minutes away. Geneva’s downtown is small but the storefronts are occupied which is more than many towns in Florida can say. By late afternoon, the wind had eased into a pleasant June afternoon with comfortable temperatures. We had dock-tails with Gary and Colleen before grilling pork chops on the BBQ.
The KOA manager posted a photo of Trilogy on their Facebook page because it was the first boat to use their park as a recreational vehicle. Breakfast was the first meal aboard. The morning was spent cleaning the hull with a very mild acid to remove all the stains, buffing out the stubborn stains and putting on two coats of polish. The boat had not been cleaned since St. Petersburg in February. Nearly a month of boating, 500 miles of road travel, three months in a storage yard and another 500 miles on the road created the need for a lot of cleaning.
Leaving in the early afternoon, the propane tank was filled, 65 gallons of diesel filled Trilogy’s tank and another 20 gallons filled the truck’s tank. The ramp at Geneva State Park was perfect for Trilogy. An hour was spent rigging her for water travel with lines, fenders, canvas, plugs in and straps off. She glided into the water, the diesel immediately came to life and all the electronics came up easily. The harbormaster directed to tie us up behind a large boat on the transient dock and as we got closer, serendipity was experienced because we knew Calypso Poet from last fall’s trip on the Tennessee River and the owner’s Gary and Colleen.
The afternoon was closed with more boat preparations, organizing, cleaning and a brief chat with Gary and Colleen and a promise to visit tomorrow when the weather would be keeping the boats in port.
The next day pockets of intense rain swept through the harbor making it a good work inside and do errands day. The medium sized plastic bin containing all the parts for various projects identified from our last trip was emptied. The projects completed included replacing the CO detector, adding two electronic cart chips, fixing the outside sensor of the weather station and swapping the dehumidifier with a portable air conditioner that had a dehumidifier function. This last project was intended to a degree of comfort when connected to shore power. This also had the tipping affect of requiring a re-assignment of spaces as the air conditioner would dominate the port side corner storage space.
Another large project was replacing the cockpit’s side canvas, screens and windows that were not usable with a fine mesh material that was excellent at shade and bug protection and would stop 80% of rainwater. Our favorite canvas shop, Leta's Top Shop in Arlington, Washington, used the old side curtains as a template but we would need to install the snaps to match the locations of those on the boat. Before the heavy rains from the south started, one of the panels was installed.
We enjoyed drinks and snacks with Gary and Colleen and they told stories of their second Great Loop adventure. A couple of take-a-way comments from them: “Shut up and be grateful.” Meaning to accept the gifts of the moment and to be socially aware may include not expressing an opinion that creates conflict. “Being plugged into nature” means more watching the weather forecasts, wind and tides as those drive the decision making process more than any other factors.
Thursday, June 28. Gary and Colleen were supposed to leave but the wind kept all the boats in port for most of the day. Laurie did errands in the truck while I fabricated a window mount for the air conditioner’s vent hose. Using hand tools and the dock as a workbench, the project was finished by mid-morning. Laurie returned and the rest of the day was cleaning the cabin and roof, cleaning all the stainless rails, putting the folding bikes on the roof, cleaning the windows, and servicing the wiper arms that were clogged with salt and grime.
Went into the Town of Geneva twice for parts for the air conditioner project only because the Ace Hardware was only 15 minutes away. Geneva’s downtown is small but the storefronts are occupied which is more than many towns in Florida can say. By late afternoon, the wind had eased into a pleasant June afternoon with comfortable temperatures. We had dock-tails with Gary and Colleen before grilling pork chops on the BBQ.
Friday, June 29. Gary and Colleen pulled away at 7AM and headed for Cleveland and the Rock and Roll Museum. We were not far behind having to store the truck in the fence yard and leave a key with the marina office staff. The air temperature was 82 degrees, wind from the southwest was light, and the lake was flat and calm. Sport fishing boats were scattered about, trolling for perch and walleye in the 30 to 50 foot deep waters that are about a mile off shore.
There is always some anxiety about the boat’s performance on day one. Has the 1100 miles of road travel vibrated something loose? Will the impeller fail? What about the serpentine belt? But Trilogy was great, came up to operating temperature appropriately, purred along at 8 miles per hour and smoothly ran at a fast cruising speed of 16 miles per hour. We traveled for five hours, staying about 2 miles from shore in 50 feet of water and let the autopilot keep the heading.
Lake Erie is one of the smaller Great Lakes at 240 miles long and 56 miles wide. The lake had a horrible reputation for decades as being polluted from the heavy industries on the shore. For the most part, the industries are gone and the lake is becoming healthy again.
Laurie dug into the cruising guides and learned about radio frequencies to use, how the western Erie Canal locks worked and the options for fuel, marinas and opportunities for free docking. The forecasted heat wave arrived and as the whole Midwest would cook in the mid-90’s, the Great Lakes would be just behind with forecasted temperatures on the high 80’s. The weather forecast for Saturday was watched and the travel conditions are mixed: winds in the mid-teens with 2 foot waves but they would be behind us. The temperature would be better on the water and traveling but the ride for a long travel day to Buffalo, NY could be better.
Trilogy arrived at the Wolverine Park Marina in Erie, PA at 2 PM and the outside temperature was 101 degrees. After setting up and getting the newly acquired air conditioner running, we walked to the nearby maritime museum and paid $16 for two hours of learning about the War of 1812 and the Battle of Lake Erie. This war was about honor and reputation with the overtones of perhaps annexing Canada into the US. New information: Irish fighters battled in Canada as a strategy to get England out of Ireland and the U.S. had get involved. Also, during the Civil War, the confederacy had a plan to bring the war to the Great Lakes.
Back at the boat, dinner was hamburgers on the grill and canned fruit. The air conditioner was experimented with the hope to have a 10-degree lower temperature and 10 percentage points of lower humidity. However, the inside of the boat was slow to cool down because the cabin walls and roof and heated during the day and was slow to cool down. When the cockpit was cooler than the inside, the mistake was to turn off the unit and open the doors and windows and immediately the humidity rose and to nearly 70% and we were all crabby. With the AC back on and some adjustments, the temperature at bedtime was still higher than outside by 4 degrees but the humidity was 15 points less.
Saturday-Sunday, June 30-July 1. The review of the morning’s weather forecast for Lake Erie confirmed that Trilogy would stay in port today because of 1-3 foot waves for about 30 miles to Buffalo, NY. After breakfast and a walk to the sky-bridge at the nearby Sheraton Hotel to see the view, the plan was settled to take the folding bikes on the nearby water taxi that would take us to Presque Isle State Park. The state park is one of Erie’s top highlights and taking the water taxi for $10 round trip turned an 8-mile bike raid into a 15 minute water crossing. The state park had a great bike path that was used for about 6 miles. The weekend use was heavy as the parking lots were filling up, the beaches were busy and the nearly all of the rental canoes, rowboats and pontoon boats were rented. We enjoyed the park as being exposed to what the locals do for enjoyment. By 1PM, the water taxi had taken us back to Erie and the very short bike ride to the marina.
After lunch, I worked on installing the new cockpit side curtains and also had to re-do half of the snaps that were done on the first panel. The first panel is always the one to learn on. I remembered well the words of Justin Peterson, a friend and a carpenter who framed both our Hat Island house and an addition at our mainland house, “Always start in the closet, because the mistakes made during the learning there will not be noticed.” The afternoon heat rose to the mid-90’s with humidity in the 70%. The air conditioning kept the boat in the low 80’s and with humidity in the 50%.
Before grilling chicken thighs on the BBQ with small potatoes, showers were taken and the laundry was done at the marina’s facilities. The night was closed with the first movie of this trip that was viewed on a laptop and the sound was played through Trilogy’s audio system.
The next day was bright, clear, still air and 84 degrees as Trilogy headed out at 0730 hours. We would travel 82 miles, past scores of small sport fishing boats, and past the small town of Dunkirk, NY. By noon, the outside temperature was 100 degrees. The water was nearly completely flat. 45 minutes of every hour was run at 2400 RPM or about 8.5 miles per hour and 15 minutes was run at 3800 RPM or about 16 miles per hour. This pattern resulted in an overall speed of about 10 miles per hour and Trilogy arrived at the fuel dock at Erie Basin Marina at 3:30 PM. Colleen and Gary used this marina and they accepted transient boaters without a reservation.
Fuel was purchased at $4.19 gallon because a quick check of the competition showed $4.50 a gallon. The very young staff made their uncertainty, lack of information about nearly everything, comical rather than annoying. It was like they started work at the beginning of the week and the boss took the day off. They knew enough of the top 10 topics to not get trouble but were a long way from being helpful. This marina is in the heart of downtown. The fixed docks were old, the shore power box had enough cobwebs and debris that it probably had not been used since last September. Though the $2 per foot was steep the location was adequate. The night was closed with the air conditioning masking most of the sound from the marginal band that was playing at the nearby outdoor bar.
There is always some anxiety about the boat’s performance on day one. Has the 1100 miles of road travel vibrated something loose? Will the impeller fail? What about the serpentine belt? But Trilogy was great, came up to operating temperature appropriately, purred along at 8 miles per hour and smoothly ran at a fast cruising speed of 16 miles per hour. We traveled for five hours, staying about 2 miles from shore in 50 feet of water and let the autopilot keep the heading.
Lake Erie is one of the smaller Great Lakes at 240 miles long and 56 miles wide. The lake had a horrible reputation for decades as being polluted from the heavy industries on the shore. For the most part, the industries are gone and the lake is becoming healthy again.
Laurie dug into the cruising guides and learned about radio frequencies to use, how the western Erie Canal locks worked and the options for fuel, marinas and opportunities for free docking. The forecasted heat wave arrived and as the whole Midwest would cook in the mid-90’s, the Great Lakes would be just behind with forecasted temperatures on the high 80’s. The weather forecast for Saturday was watched and the travel conditions are mixed: winds in the mid-teens with 2 foot waves but they would be behind us. The temperature would be better on the water and traveling but the ride for a long travel day to Buffalo, NY could be better.
Trilogy arrived at the Wolverine Park Marina in Erie, PA at 2 PM and the outside temperature was 101 degrees. After setting up and getting the newly acquired air conditioner running, we walked to the nearby maritime museum and paid $16 for two hours of learning about the War of 1812 and the Battle of Lake Erie. This war was about honor and reputation with the overtones of perhaps annexing Canada into the US. New information: Irish fighters battled in Canada as a strategy to get England out of Ireland and the U.S. had get involved. Also, during the Civil War, the confederacy had a plan to bring the war to the Great Lakes.
Back at the boat, dinner was hamburgers on the grill and canned fruit. The air conditioner was experimented with the hope to have a 10-degree lower temperature and 10 percentage points of lower humidity. However, the inside of the boat was slow to cool down because the cabin walls and roof and heated during the day and was slow to cool down. When the cockpit was cooler than the inside, the mistake was to turn off the unit and open the doors and windows and immediately the humidity rose and to nearly 70% and we were all crabby. With the AC back on and some adjustments, the temperature at bedtime was still higher than outside by 4 degrees but the humidity was 15 points less.
Saturday-Sunday, June 30-July 1. The review of the morning’s weather forecast for Lake Erie confirmed that Trilogy would stay in port today because of 1-3 foot waves for about 30 miles to Buffalo, NY. After breakfast and a walk to the sky-bridge at the nearby Sheraton Hotel to see the view, the plan was settled to take the folding bikes on the nearby water taxi that would take us to Presque Isle State Park. The state park is one of Erie’s top highlights and taking the water taxi for $10 round trip turned an 8-mile bike raid into a 15 minute water crossing. The state park had a great bike path that was used for about 6 miles. The weekend use was heavy as the parking lots were filling up, the beaches were busy and the nearly all of the rental canoes, rowboats and pontoon boats were rented. We enjoyed the park as being exposed to what the locals do for enjoyment. By 1PM, the water taxi had taken us back to Erie and the very short bike ride to the marina.
After lunch, I worked on installing the new cockpit side curtains and also had to re-do half of the snaps that were done on the first panel. The first panel is always the one to learn on. I remembered well the words of Justin Peterson, a friend and a carpenter who framed both our Hat Island house and an addition at our mainland house, “Always start in the closet, because the mistakes made during the learning there will not be noticed.” The afternoon heat rose to the mid-90’s with humidity in the 70%. The air conditioning kept the boat in the low 80’s and with humidity in the 50%.
Before grilling chicken thighs on the BBQ with small potatoes, showers were taken and the laundry was done at the marina’s facilities. The night was closed with the first movie of this trip that was viewed on a laptop and the sound was played through Trilogy’s audio system.
The next day was bright, clear, still air and 84 degrees as Trilogy headed out at 0730 hours. We would travel 82 miles, past scores of small sport fishing boats, and past the small town of Dunkirk, NY. By noon, the outside temperature was 100 degrees. The water was nearly completely flat. 45 minutes of every hour was run at 2400 RPM or about 8.5 miles per hour and 15 minutes was run at 3800 RPM or about 16 miles per hour. This pattern resulted in an overall speed of about 10 miles per hour and Trilogy arrived at the fuel dock at Erie Basin Marina at 3:30 PM. Colleen and Gary used this marina and they accepted transient boaters without a reservation.
Fuel was purchased at $4.19 gallon because a quick check of the competition showed $4.50 a gallon. The very young staff made their uncertainty, lack of information about nearly everything, comical rather than annoying. It was like they started work at the beginning of the week and the boss took the day off. They knew enough of the top 10 topics to not get trouble but were a long way from being helpful. This marina is in the heart of downtown. The fixed docks were old, the shore power box had enough cobwebs and debris that it probably had not been used since last September. Though the $2 per foot was steep the location was adequate. The night was closed with the air conditioning masking most of the sound from the marginal band that was playing at the nearby outdoor bar.
WESTERN PORTION OF THE ERIE CANAL: BUFFALO TO OSWEGO, NEW YORK
Tuesday, July 3. The plans for the day were jettison when the head would not flush. The toilet is one of those essential devices that is taken for granted until it becomes the number one priority. Boat ownership requires a willingness to assess and work the problem or to have a very deep checkbook to pay someone else. This problem would take six hours to completely solve and working the problem included information from the owner’s manual, watching a Youtube video, doing a parts run to West Marine, emptying storage areas removing shelves and hoses, and then putting it all back together again. Returning the rental car and getting an Uber ride back was also in this time frame.
The warm weather continued with clear skies, no wind, and highs in the low 90’s. The job was a sweaty one and very nasty and smelly. After a late lunch, the marina was left at 1:45 PM and we traveled the Black Rock Canal rather than the fast current of the Niagara River because the water levels were up the current was rocking. Trilogy just slipped under the railroad bridge but needed the highway swing bridge to open. The lock master offered to deviate from the posted schedule and took us down the 6 feet and into the Niagara River were the tug enjoyed a 2 knot push around Grand Island.
Trilogy entered the Erie Canal at the town of North Tonawanda and immediately the cruise changed to quiet, narrow waterway with trees leaning over on each side, and it was personal and quiet. Among docks and boats the speed limit is 5 and everywhere else the speed is 10. For the next two hours the cruising and the unfolding scenery of rural New York and the countryside captivated us. Sometimes there were homes, a dock here and there, a closed restaurant where the free dock is still available, and sometimes a small neighborhood hugs the shoreline.
We stopped for the night in Lockport and found a free dock that is immediately adjacent to the lock and in the small town. The cruising guides mentioned a long wall that was half-mile from town but that sight is horrible compared to this one. Two rental boats had taken most of the space and the available dock, but Trilogy fit nicely against the wall. Shore power was welcome to run the air conditioner.
Peggy and Al are from Houston and had rented the 40’ canal boat for a week and spoke about how the top speed was only 5 MPH. It was a long, hot and full day. Heat control measures were essential and then showers were spectacular. The town’s 4thof July parade happened around us though we did not see it. A local pizza place was chosen for dinner and though it did not serve beer, the pizza was incredible.
At 9:45PM, we were treated to a nice fireworks show. The locks were surrounded by people as the fireworks would happen very close by. The evening cooled, Laurie wore her new bug shirt and pants, and the evening closed.
Tuesday, July 3. The plans for the day were jettison when the head would not flush. The toilet is one of those essential devices that is taken for granted until it becomes the number one priority. Boat ownership requires a willingness to assess and work the problem or to have a very deep checkbook to pay someone else. This problem would take six hours to completely solve and working the problem included information from the owner’s manual, watching a Youtube video, doing a parts run to West Marine, emptying storage areas removing shelves and hoses, and then putting it all back together again. Returning the rental car and getting an Uber ride back was also in this time frame.
The warm weather continued with clear skies, no wind, and highs in the low 90’s. The job was a sweaty one and very nasty and smelly. After a late lunch, the marina was left at 1:45 PM and we traveled the Black Rock Canal rather than the fast current of the Niagara River because the water levels were up the current was rocking. Trilogy just slipped under the railroad bridge but needed the highway swing bridge to open. The lock master offered to deviate from the posted schedule and took us down the 6 feet and into the Niagara River were the tug enjoyed a 2 knot push around Grand Island.
Trilogy entered the Erie Canal at the town of North Tonawanda and immediately the cruise changed to quiet, narrow waterway with trees leaning over on each side, and it was personal and quiet. Among docks and boats the speed limit is 5 and everywhere else the speed is 10. For the next two hours the cruising and the unfolding scenery of rural New York and the countryside captivated us. Sometimes there were homes, a dock here and there, a closed restaurant where the free dock is still available, and sometimes a small neighborhood hugs the shoreline.
We stopped for the night in Lockport and found a free dock that is immediately adjacent to the lock and in the small town. The cruising guides mentioned a long wall that was half-mile from town but that sight is horrible compared to this one. Two rental boats had taken most of the space and the available dock, but Trilogy fit nicely against the wall. Shore power was welcome to run the air conditioner.
Peggy and Al are from Houston and had rented the 40’ canal boat for a week and spoke about how the top speed was only 5 MPH. It was a long, hot and full day. Heat control measures were essential and then showers were spectacular. The town’s 4thof July parade happened around us though we did not see it. A local pizza place was chosen for dinner and though it did not serve beer, the pizza was incredible.
At 9:45PM, we were treated to a nice fireworks show. The locks were surrounded by people as the fireworks would happen very close by. The evening cooled, Laurie wore her new bug shirt and pants, and the evening closed.
Wednesday, July 4. The day started with a leisurely tour of the canal museum with its great exhibits and history of the Erie Canal. Some take-a-ways: the canal was originally built without the use of professional engineers, the locals in Lockport invented machinery and techniques to move material, the governor pardoned state prison inmates who worked on the canal, the canal was a commercial success until World War I when the demand to move goods quickly exceeded the capabilities of the canal, and commercial use of the canal is non-existent and has been for decades.
Trilogywent through the double lock at about 0900 hours and the cruise was soon disrupted when the engine RPM’s began wavering by about 200 RPMS and the engine displayed showed a “Throttle Sensor” alarm. The wavering would stop and then happen again for short episodes. The immediate notion was that the fuel filters were clogged, so we stopped at Middleport Park, the Lions Park and spent the next 90 minutes changing the two filters, bleeding the fuel system, cleaning up and putting all the tools away. Starting again, the alarms had cleared and the engine was smooth.
The day was heating up again to the mid-90’s. A quick lunch stop was made at Canal Port that is known for the quarrying of sandstone. The town was completely empty of cars and people and the hot clear air made exploring a fleeting a notion. Shortly after leaving, the head made a new sound and then water would not flush away from the bowl. This problem would dominate the rest of the day. Laurie chose the Village of Albion as the overnight stop because it had power for the air conditioner and showers and restrooms near the free town wall.
The core problem was a sagging drain line that allowed for a blockage. That was handled by using cable ties to raise up and hold the drain line. Still, water did not drain and the macerator pump did not move. A new mechanical problem had occurred. Taking apart the toilet found an engineering flaw: the discharge motor is connected to the pump with small belt with teeth. The belt had broken under the stress of trying to move water through the blockage in the line.
Thinking that the simple fix was finding a replacement belt resulted in hours of frustrating research. Jabsco did not make this model any more and no parts were available, anywhere. Even the service kit was back ordered from the factory for at least two weeks. Being a holiday, consulting with the helpful experts at Seattle’s Marine Sanitation would have to wait. The blasting heat of the mid-90’s contributed to frustration and short tempers. Changing the fuel filters earlier in the day felt like it was a week ago. After a nice dinner, we de-compressed with a music video.
Trilogywent through the double lock at about 0900 hours and the cruise was soon disrupted when the engine RPM’s began wavering by about 200 RPMS and the engine displayed showed a “Throttle Sensor” alarm. The wavering would stop and then happen again for short episodes. The immediate notion was that the fuel filters were clogged, so we stopped at Middleport Park, the Lions Park and spent the next 90 minutes changing the two filters, bleeding the fuel system, cleaning up and putting all the tools away. Starting again, the alarms had cleared and the engine was smooth.
The day was heating up again to the mid-90’s. A quick lunch stop was made at Canal Port that is known for the quarrying of sandstone. The town was completely empty of cars and people and the hot clear air made exploring a fleeting a notion. Shortly after leaving, the head made a new sound and then water would not flush away from the bowl. This problem would dominate the rest of the day. Laurie chose the Village of Albion as the overnight stop because it had power for the air conditioner and showers and restrooms near the free town wall.
The core problem was a sagging drain line that allowed for a blockage. That was handled by using cable ties to raise up and hold the drain line. Still, water did not drain and the macerator pump did not move. A new mechanical problem had occurred. Taking apart the toilet found an engineering flaw: the discharge motor is connected to the pump with small belt with teeth. The belt had broken under the stress of trying to move water through the blockage in the line.
Thinking that the simple fix was finding a replacement belt resulted in hours of frustrating research. Jabsco did not make this model any more and no parts were available, anywhere. Even the service kit was back ordered from the factory for at least two weeks. Being a holiday, consulting with the helpful experts at Seattle’s Marine Sanitation would have to wait. The blasting heat of the mid-90’s contributed to frustration and short tempers. Changing the fuel filters earlier in the day felt like it was a week ago. After a nice dinner, we de-compressed with a music video.
Thursday-Friday, July 5-6. The Village of Albion was still quiet and nearly vacant at 8AM when we took a walk around the commercial district. The True Value Hardware was open as was the NAPA auto parts. I handed the employee at the auto parts the broken belt and asked if he could replaced this. He spent 20 minutes making calls with his wholesaler and checking reference books and announced that this belt could not be located.
We left Albion for the destination of Brockport that advertised power and bathrooms. This part of the trip was dubbed, ”Headless on the Erie Canal.” On the way, the throttle alarm sensor sounded again. A query was sent out to our boating community and several good ideas were received. But that would have to wait while the head issue was resolved.
Several lift bridges were opened for us. All of these highway bridges are just a few feet above the canal and the clearance is rarely more than 15 feet. This clearance prevented the common looper boats from going on the west end of the canal. The amount of boat traffic per year is estimated at 300 to 500 recreational boats. The bridge tenders will answer the marine radio but their phone numbers are also published. Though they make an effort to not delay boaters, some bridge tenders handle more than one bridge and sometimes a wait is necessary.
The countryside was quiet and peaceful as the canal went through farmland of different crops, abandoned farmhouses, and small hamlets of modest homes. Bicyclists were pedaling the trail that used to be used for mules that pulled barges and an occasional kayaker was encountered. The boat traffic was about a total of 6 boats and was the most seen since leaving Towanda.
Trilogy found a spot on the long wall in Brockport between two lift bridges and two other boats were there. By the end of the day, 4 more would arrive and there was room for more. With shore power hooked up to run the air conditioner for another day in the mid-90’s, the volunteers at the visitor took the $8 docking fee and provided a key card to the bathrooms. Lunch was in the shade at a nearby picnic table.
I moved into the visitor center to use their Wifi and air conditioning to find a drive belt, a Jabsco service kit or to find a new toilet that could be obtained soon. This 3 hour long quest illustrated the change in the retail services in recent years. No retailers either online or brick and mortar had the drive belt or the service kit for the toilet. The Gates belt company had changed their identifying letters and no one could provide a cross-reference. Jabsco had stopped making this head and the service kit was backordered at the factory.
The dead-ends stopped with a conversation with my favorite marine sanitation company in Seattle, “Marine Sanitation.” Yes, the drive belt was the weak link in the Jabsco model, the service kits are gone and the best fix is to replace the head with a new one and they quickly told me the make and model to get that would fit the variables that Trilogyhas. Plus, they provided the source in the Northeast to get one. The best offer was to have one shipped and it would arrive Monday. Wanting to get one soon, 45 minutes was spent calling a dozen retailers and all of them said; “We can order it for you.”
Sometimes, an attitude of acceptance is all that is needed to brighten the day. Making the order within minutes of a shipping deadline, the new head was on its way to the UPS store in Fairport, NY. With a burden lifted, the town looked nicer and the trip was going to be fun even though the humidity was extremely high. Steaks were grilled, a concert of country guitarist was attended on the canal edge, downtown was walked with a cup of good ice cream in hand. After a shower, the heavy humidity of possible rainstorm was still heavy in the air as we enjoyed another night with the air conditioning on.
The next day, as the weatherman said, fresh air is moving through the region with cooling temperature, lower humidity and no rain in the immediate forecast. The cooler night meant a better and longer sleep and a happier crew and cat. Over breakfast, the decision was made to stay another night because the town is cute, the bathrooms are clean and free, the dockage is only $8, and the volunteers at the visitor will try their hardest to make things easier.
The old head was removed and some of the parts were kept for future projects. The plan was made on doing the install of the new head in Fairport, which would be next stop, and a couple of tools were needed. The rental canal boats left to return to base and end their trip. A Lowe’s was about 1.8 miles away so the bikes were set up, air added to the tires and Laurie’s bike helmet was fitted with new cushions using a cozy for beer cans.
The town was alive with traffic and the cars like people had returned from the July 4thholiday. The bike ride was fun, fast and easy and was the highlight of the day and we discovered a huge Harbor Freight store that had the tools needed plus more. Stops at the Walmart and a Tractor Supply Store rounded fulfilling the shopping list. After lunch on the boat, the toolboxes and bags and supply box were re-organized and stored. After a dinner of fajitas in the shade of the cockpit, we walked to the re-modeled theater that was built in the 1960’s and saw the animation movie, “The Incredibles 2” and laughed.
Saturday, July 7. We were in no hurry because the new toilet would arrive in Fairport on Monday and that was 39 miles away. This is the third day of be being “Headless On The Erie Canal” and we are adapting well. Trilogy pulled away from the dock at 0915 hours under clear skies and temperatures in the mid-70’s. The canal was busier than any other day before with more kayaks, a few fishing boats, and about half-a-dozen westbound cruising boats. The canal is about 100 feet wide. So, every boat is impacted with the wake of another boat and Trilogy worked to be considerate and dropped to a no wake speed at every encounter. Sadly, nearly all the cruising boats did not and left their 1 to 2 foot wake behind them to contend with.
An hour later, Spencerport was passed and we cruised by the small cute town and the free docks that were in good condition and had power. The outskirts of Rochester were signaled by more houses, more roads and bridges and an old and unused industrial area; a leftover of the 150 years of commercial prosperity that was the foundation for growth, innovation, and social change. Rochester was first known as the flour capital of the country because the Erie Canal brought product to the mills and the water generated cheap electricity. Later Eastman Kodak and Xerox would lead and dominate the imaging industry for decades. The seeds and the energy of the anti-slavery and equality for women would grow and nurture here. Today, Rochester is re-developing and trying to not turn into another Buffalo.
The junction of the Genesee River took us off the canal, through the college campus of the University of Rochester and into the beginning of the downtown core. Trilogy was moored on a free wall alongside a broad walkway with new businesses mixed with residential housing. We had a beer and split a salad and fish tacos under an umbrella on the broad patio. Then, we walked to the dam that was built to divert the Erie Canal from continuing on to Lake Ontario. The water was used to spin turbines and it ended the “Aisle of Death” as this portion of the waterway had become known. The downtown was strangely very quiet with almost no cars.
Continuing on, Trilogy retraced the way back to the Erie Canal and headed east, through locks 33 and 32 and through another quaint and viable stop at Pittsford, New York. An hour later, at 4:30PM, arrival was made at Fairport and Trilogy passed the more crowded walls between the two bridges and moored at new wall just east of the one lane steel car bridge. $22 was paid for two nights of moorage that include power and use of the new and very clean restrooms.
We had dinner of brauts and leftover fajita in the cockpit as the afternoon was starting to cool. Afterwards, we walked the boardwalk on each side of the canal as a live band was starting and sampled ice cream. Showers were taken and the evening was closed with a movie on the laptop.
We left Albion for the destination of Brockport that advertised power and bathrooms. This part of the trip was dubbed, ”Headless on the Erie Canal.” On the way, the throttle alarm sensor sounded again. A query was sent out to our boating community and several good ideas were received. But that would have to wait while the head issue was resolved.
Several lift bridges were opened for us. All of these highway bridges are just a few feet above the canal and the clearance is rarely more than 15 feet. This clearance prevented the common looper boats from going on the west end of the canal. The amount of boat traffic per year is estimated at 300 to 500 recreational boats. The bridge tenders will answer the marine radio but their phone numbers are also published. Though they make an effort to not delay boaters, some bridge tenders handle more than one bridge and sometimes a wait is necessary.
The countryside was quiet and peaceful as the canal went through farmland of different crops, abandoned farmhouses, and small hamlets of modest homes. Bicyclists were pedaling the trail that used to be used for mules that pulled barges and an occasional kayaker was encountered. The boat traffic was about a total of 6 boats and was the most seen since leaving Towanda.
Trilogy found a spot on the long wall in Brockport between two lift bridges and two other boats were there. By the end of the day, 4 more would arrive and there was room for more. With shore power hooked up to run the air conditioner for another day in the mid-90’s, the volunteers at the visitor took the $8 docking fee and provided a key card to the bathrooms. Lunch was in the shade at a nearby picnic table.
I moved into the visitor center to use their Wifi and air conditioning to find a drive belt, a Jabsco service kit or to find a new toilet that could be obtained soon. This 3 hour long quest illustrated the change in the retail services in recent years. No retailers either online or brick and mortar had the drive belt or the service kit for the toilet. The Gates belt company had changed their identifying letters and no one could provide a cross-reference. Jabsco had stopped making this head and the service kit was backordered at the factory.
The dead-ends stopped with a conversation with my favorite marine sanitation company in Seattle, “Marine Sanitation.” Yes, the drive belt was the weak link in the Jabsco model, the service kits are gone and the best fix is to replace the head with a new one and they quickly told me the make and model to get that would fit the variables that Trilogyhas. Plus, they provided the source in the Northeast to get one. The best offer was to have one shipped and it would arrive Monday. Wanting to get one soon, 45 minutes was spent calling a dozen retailers and all of them said; “We can order it for you.”
Sometimes, an attitude of acceptance is all that is needed to brighten the day. Making the order within minutes of a shipping deadline, the new head was on its way to the UPS store in Fairport, NY. With a burden lifted, the town looked nicer and the trip was going to be fun even though the humidity was extremely high. Steaks were grilled, a concert of country guitarist was attended on the canal edge, downtown was walked with a cup of good ice cream in hand. After a shower, the heavy humidity of possible rainstorm was still heavy in the air as we enjoyed another night with the air conditioning on.
The next day, as the weatherman said, fresh air is moving through the region with cooling temperature, lower humidity and no rain in the immediate forecast. The cooler night meant a better and longer sleep and a happier crew and cat. Over breakfast, the decision was made to stay another night because the town is cute, the bathrooms are clean and free, the dockage is only $8, and the volunteers at the visitor will try their hardest to make things easier.
The old head was removed and some of the parts were kept for future projects. The plan was made on doing the install of the new head in Fairport, which would be next stop, and a couple of tools were needed. The rental canal boats left to return to base and end their trip. A Lowe’s was about 1.8 miles away so the bikes were set up, air added to the tires and Laurie’s bike helmet was fitted with new cushions using a cozy for beer cans.
The town was alive with traffic and the cars like people had returned from the July 4thholiday. The bike ride was fun, fast and easy and was the highlight of the day and we discovered a huge Harbor Freight store that had the tools needed plus more. Stops at the Walmart and a Tractor Supply Store rounded fulfilling the shopping list. After lunch on the boat, the toolboxes and bags and supply box were re-organized and stored. After a dinner of fajitas in the shade of the cockpit, we walked to the re-modeled theater that was built in the 1960’s and saw the animation movie, “The Incredibles 2” and laughed.
Saturday, July 7. We were in no hurry because the new toilet would arrive in Fairport on Monday and that was 39 miles away. This is the third day of be being “Headless On The Erie Canal” and we are adapting well. Trilogy pulled away from the dock at 0915 hours under clear skies and temperatures in the mid-70’s. The canal was busier than any other day before with more kayaks, a few fishing boats, and about half-a-dozen westbound cruising boats. The canal is about 100 feet wide. So, every boat is impacted with the wake of another boat and Trilogy worked to be considerate and dropped to a no wake speed at every encounter. Sadly, nearly all the cruising boats did not and left their 1 to 2 foot wake behind them to contend with.
An hour later, Spencerport was passed and we cruised by the small cute town and the free docks that were in good condition and had power. The outskirts of Rochester were signaled by more houses, more roads and bridges and an old and unused industrial area; a leftover of the 150 years of commercial prosperity that was the foundation for growth, innovation, and social change. Rochester was first known as the flour capital of the country because the Erie Canal brought product to the mills and the water generated cheap electricity. Later Eastman Kodak and Xerox would lead and dominate the imaging industry for decades. The seeds and the energy of the anti-slavery and equality for women would grow and nurture here. Today, Rochester is re-developing and trying to not turn into another Buffalo.
The junction of the Genesee River took us off the canal, through the college campus of the University of Rochester and into the beginning of the downtown core. Trilogy was moored on a free wall alongside a broad walkway with new businesses mixed with residential housing. We had a beer and split a salad and fish tacos under an umbrella on the broad patio. Then, we walked to the dam that was built to divert the Erie Canal from continuing on to Lake Ontario. The water was used to spin turbines and it ended the “Aisle of Death” as this portion of the waterway had become known. The downtown was strangely very quiet with almost no cars.
Continuing on, Trilogy retraced the way back to the Erie Canal and headed east, through locks 33 and 32 and through another quaint and viable stop at Pittsford, New York. An hour later, at 4:30PM, arrival was made at Fairport and Trilogy passed the more crowded walls between the two bridges and moored at new wall just east of the one lane steel car bridge. $22 was paid for two nights of moorage that include power and use of the new and very clean restrooms.
We had dinner of brauts and leftover fajita in the cockpit as the afternoon was starting to cool. Afterwards, we walked the boardwalk on each side of the canal as a live band was starting and sampled ice cream. Showers were taken and the evening was closed with a movie on the laptop.
Sunday, July 8. The sun woke up Millie at 0530 hours for breakfast and when not fed, she remained deep in the cave under the dinette until 0730 hours. We try to attend an Episcopal church on Sunday and St. Luke’s was about 2 miles away and well within our biking radius. The bike ride there was challenging because the map program got it wrong and the hills made the sweat pop out. Being inherently critical, we immediately noticed the directional signage was inadequate. But we arrived well in advance of the 0900 hours service and were immediately noticed because we were visitors in a group of long-time members, we were the youngest of the 40 people attending and we rode bicycles. Being on a boat in the canal and being from Seattle only added to the talk.
The ride back to the boat was nearly all down hill and most of if was through heavily shaded streets and lanes moderately large homes on large lots of grass and almost no fences. Thus, giving the feel of openness. The day was clear blue skies, temperatures stopping in the high 80’s but with low humidity.
After lunch, I finished installing the new side curtains by installing snaps in the cockpit that match the locations of the ones screwed into the hull. This canvas mesh would provide essential shade protection and the temperature difference of behind it the shade was at least 10 degrees. Then, the Smart Plug was installed on the shore power cable. After witnessing a near boat fire involving our friend’s boat because of a traditional power cord connection, all of our shore power cord connections were switched to Smart Plugs because of the better design and materials.
Laurie caught up on her writing and research for the next part of the trip and planned the meals and developed a shopping list. Though the heat was climbing, the cure for being antsy on the boat was to take the folding bikes to explore the residential areas and the path along the canal. The houses were well maintained and the neighborhoods attractive. The bike and walking path along the canal was heavily used and interesting. If we did not already live in a beautiful area in the summertime, this town would be a real contender.
Monday, July 9. The heat is back, in the high 80’s under clear skies and pockets of thunderstorms are occurring in the greater region. After breakfast, the waiting for the delivery of the new head is filled with capital campaign work for St. John’s and small boat projects. The 50-pound box was delivered to the local UPS store and it is in hand by 10:30 and the store was kind enough to loan their hand truck for the three-block trip to Trilogy.
Preparing for the work with tools, doing the placement, finalizing the planning of the plumbing and electrical, an Uber ride to West Marine and back for parts, doing the install and cleaning up would take 10 hours. The plumbing plan was adapted to West Marine’s inventory. There was the battle of snaking wiring under the floor and behind a wall, the battle fastening to the floor when not having all the right tools, and the battle of adjusting the height of the discharge line to prevent blockages. Each of these battles lasted about an hour. However, nothing was broken and there was only one re-do. We are no longer “headless on the Erie Canal.
Why do I these big projects? I am cheap about paying someone for work that I can do. I also like the challenge of doing something that I have not before. Lastly, I like the satisfaction of accomplishing the project and solving the problem. Dinner was take-out pizza and wings and a whole quart of ice tea during a break. The evening was closed with a welcome shower.
The ride back to the boat was nearly all down hill and most of if was through heavily shaded streets and lanes moderately large homes on large lots of grass and almost no fences. Thus, giving the feel of openness. The day was clear blue skies, temperatures stopping in the high 80’s but with low humidity.
After lunch, I finished installing the new side curtains by installing snaps in the cockpit that match the locations of the ones screwed into the hull. This canvas mesh would provide essential shade protection and the temperature difference of behind it the shade was at least 10 degrees. Then, the Smart Plug was installed on the shore power cable. After witnessing a near boat fire involving our friend’s boat because of a traditional power cord connection, all of our shore power cord connections were switched to Smart Plugs because of the better design and materials.
Laurie caught up on her writing and research for the next part of the trip and planned the meals and developed a shopping list. Though the heat was climbing, the cure for being antsy on the boat was to take the folding bikes to explore the residential areas and the path along the canal. The houses were well maintained and the neighborhoods attractive. The bike and walking path along the canal was heavily used and interesting. If we did not already live in a beautiful area in the summertime, this town would be a real contender.
Monday, July 9. The heat is back, in the high 80’s under clear skies and pockets of thunderstorms are occurring in the greater region. After breakfast, the waiting for the delivery of the new head is filled with capital campaign work for St. John’s and small boat projects. The 50-pound box was delivered to the local UPS store and it is in hand by 10:30 and the store was kind enough to loan their hand truck for the three-block trip to Trilogy.
Preparing for the work with tools, doing the placement, finalizing the planning of the plumbing and electrical, an Uber ride to West Marine and back for parts, doing the install and cleaning up would take 10 hours. The plumbing plan was adapted to West Marine’s inventory. There was the battle of snaking wiring under the floor and behind a wall, the battle fastening to the floor when not having all the right tools, and the battle of adjusting the height of the discharge line to prevent blockages. Each of these battles lasted about an hour. However, nothing was broken and there was only one re-do. We are no longer “headless on the Erie Canal.
Why do I these big projects? I am cheap about paying someone for work that I can do. I also like the challenge of doing something that I have not before. Lastly, I like the satisfaction of accomplishing the project and solving the problem. Dinner was take-out pizza and wings and a whole quart of ice tea during a break. The evening was closed with a welcome shower.
Tuesday, July 10. Feeling antsy about staying in one place for three days, the reaction would be a long travel day of 54 miles, over 9 hours and travel through 10 locks while traveling from Fairport to Seneca Falls. This region is very rural with towns 15 or so miles apart or what a mule team could pull in a day during the 1800’s. This would be first day where the width of the canal would be wider than 100 feet as it went through small lakes and used established rivers that were now controlled by locks. Heavily forested areas yield to flat and wide marshes that were dotted with abandoned homes.
Bicyclists would be one of the day’s highlights. 700 cyclists were riding from Buffalo to Albany on the Erie Canal and we would see them throughout the morning and at a rest stop in Newark where “mural madness” was happening. This is an event where artists are painting murals in small New York towns.
Since July 4 and on every travel day, the engine’s throttle alarm sensor would sound after the RPM’s would waver and hesitate. Then it would even out and the alarm would clear when the engine as shut down. This happened twice in the morning and then would be perfectly smooth for the following 6 hours.
Seneca Falls was off the Erie Canal on the Cayuga-Seneca Canal that is on the way to Seneca Lake. A place was found on the free town wall. Laundry was started, ice cream was offered in the park, and we enjoyed a brief walk on Main street. Chicken strips were grilled and added to a salad.
Bicyclists would be one of the day’s highlights. 700 cyclists were riding from Buffalo to Albany on the Erie Canal and we would see them throughout the morning and at a rest stop in Newark where “mural madness” was happening. This is an event where artists are painting murals in small New York towns.
Since July 4 and on every travel day, the engine’s throttle alarm sensor would sound after the RPM’s would waver and hesitate. Then it would even out and the alarm would clear when the engine as shut down. This happened twice in the morning and then would be perfectly smooth for the following 6 hours.
Seneca Falls was off the Erie Canal on the Cayuga-Seneca Canal that is on the way to Seneca Lake. A place was found on the free town wall. Laundry was started, ice cream was offered in the park, and we enjoyed a brief walk on Main street. Chicken strips were grilled and added to a salad.
Wednesday, July 11. The downtown wall was still and quiet despite having 4 boats near Trilogy. The walking trail and the adjacent parking would be quiet until noon. After breakfast and before the opening of the Women’s Rights National Historical Site, half of the boat was washed and the inside was swept.
The National Park Site that commemorates the first convention calling for equal rights for women was well done. One take away was that 100 women and men signed the Declaration of Sentiments that stated what the issues were. The backlash from the media resulted in all the signers renouncing their decision to sign two weeks after the convention. This road to equality would be long and slow and is still not completed.
The weekly farmer’s market set up their booths in the nearby city park. Fresh beans, coffee and a peach pie were purchased. The nearby Women’s Hall of Fame and the “It's A Wonderful Life” museum were toured. Urban legend has it that the screen writers for the movie were inspired by Seneca Falls though the movie was filmed on a massive set built in Southern California.
After lunch, Trilogy left Seneca Falls and traced her steps back through 3 locks to the Erie Canal and turned east. For the next 37 miles, the cruise was quiet and peaceful, going through rural countryside, farm fields, modest homes, RV camps, and small marinas. Two westbound boats were encountered. The destination was Baldwinsville and the free dock that is close to Lock 24. Arrival was made at 5:30PM and the floating dock was in a pleasant, shaded setting that was next o a bike trail and a large cemetery. A nice breeze kept the evening comfortable. Hamburgers were grilled on the BBQ and the evening was closed with a movie.
The National Park Site that commemorates the first convention calling for equal rights for women was well done. One take away was that 100 women and men signed the Declaration of Sentiments that stated what the issues were. The backlash from the media resulted in all the signers renouncing their decision to sign two weeks after the convention. This road to equality would be long and slow and is still not completed.
The weekly farmer’s market set up their booths in the nearby city park. Fresh beans, coffee and a peach pie were purchased. The nearby Women’s Hall of Fame and the “It's A Wonderful Life” museum were toured. Urban legend has it that the screen writers for the movie were inspired by Seneca Falls though the movie was filmed on a massive set built in Southern California.
After lunch, Trilogy left Seneca Falls and traced her steps back through 3 locks to the Erie Canal and turned east. For the next 37 miles, the cruise was quiet and peaceful, going through rural countryside, farm fields, modest homes, RV camps, and small marinas. Two westbound boats were encountered. The destination was Baldwinsville and the free dock that is close to Lock 24. Arrival was made at 5:30PM and the floating dock was in a pleasant, shaded setting that was next o a bike trail and a large cemetery. A nice breeze kept the evening comfortable. Hamburgers were grilled on the BBQ and the evening was closed with a movie.
Thursday, July 12 and the end of the western portion of the Erie Canal. After breakfast, the bikes were set up to take advantage of the proximity of stores for pre-Canada supplies. The NAPA store had oil for a coming oil/filter change, the Ace Hardware had the items to restore the interior woodwork, and a small convenience store was stopped at. All of the beer was from the Budweiser family and was passed on. Another stop for beer would be done in Oswego, New York. In Canada, the prices for diesel and beer are way higher. All the errands were done, the bikes back in their bags and on the roof of Trilogy and the first lock of the day, Lock 24 was entered at 0915.
This day would end the western portion of the Erie Canal, connect to the Oswego Canal and would end on the shores of Lake Ontario in Oswego, New York. Though only 37 miles, it would take most of the day due to delays at several of the 8 locks that would be transited. Also, the speed limit was 10 MPH the whole day. At 1045 came the Three Rivers Junction where the Seneca, Oswego and Oneida Rivers join and this starts the eastern portion of the Erie Canal. Trilogy would turn north on the Oswego River (or Canal).
The lockmaster at Lock 1 said there was a delay for about 20 minutes, which really means 45 minutes to an hour. We tied up to the dock at Phoenix and watched the city kids play in an organized program that included assisting and serving boaters. We had encountered this program on the last loop trip and were impressed by the leadership and commitment of the adults that make this program work.
We passed the former Miller Brewing Company plant that in the 1990’s was making 10 million cans of beer a year. There were more boats because the Oswego Canal is the only access to Lake Ontario but the numbers were still very few on this clear day with ideal cruising conditions. Locks 6, 7 and 8 transit the Oswego Rapids and do the deeper drops down to the lake level. After Lock 7, we stopped on the wall and walked to the nearby grocery store to stock up on beer.
Arriving at the Oswego Marina at 4:45 PM, 54 gallons of diesel was pumped in and a slip was available. Trilogy joined 5 other looper boats. We chatted with three of them through the afternoon and next morning. Most were crossing the lake tomorrow because of the good forecast. Dinner was tacos and the evening was closed with a movie.
This day would end the western portion of the Erie Canal, connect to the Oswego Canal and would end on the shores of Lake Ontario in Oswego, New York. Though only 37 miles, it would take most of the day due to delays at several of the 8 locks that would be transited. Also, the speed limit was 10 MPH the whole day. At 1045 came the Three Rivers Junction where the Seneca, Oswego and Oneida Rivers join and this starts the eastern portion of the Erie Canal. Trilogy would turn north on the Oswego River (or Canal).
The lockmaster at Lock 1 said there was a delay for about 20 minutes, which really means 45 minutes to an hour. We tied up to the dock at Phoenix and watched the city kids play in an organized program that included assisting and serving boaters. We had encountered this program on the last loop trip and were impressed by the leadership and commitment of the adults that make this program work.
We passed the former Miller Brewing Company plant that in the 1990’s was making 10 million cans of beer a year. There were more boats because the Oswego Canal is the only access to Lake Ontario but the numbers were still very few on this clear day with ideal cruising conditions. Locks 6, 7 and 8 transit the Oswego Rapids and do the deeper drops down to the lake level. After Lock 7, we stopped on the wall and walked to the nearby grocery store to stock up on beer.
Arriving at the Oswego Marina at 4:45 PM, 54 gallons of diesel was pumped in and a slip was available. Trilogy joined 5 other looper boats. We chatted with three of them through the afternoon and next morning. Most were crossing the lake tomorrow because of the good forecast. Dinner was tacos and the evening was closed with a movie.
KINGSTON TO OTTAWA, ONTARIO AND THE RIDEAU CANAL
Friday, July 13 Crossing Lake Ontario. Three of the looper boats were gone by 0800 hours under clear skies with a fresh breeze from the south at 11 MPH. We waited to see if the forecast would come true that the wind speed would drop to single digits. Millie was different today by not getting out of her hiding spot all morning, not having breakfast and remaining deep under the storage area under the dinette for the five hour trip to Kingston, Ontario. But when the sound of an opening can food was heard at lunchtime, she came out and protested about her circumstances.
Trilogy left Oswego at 1000 hours with a full tank of fuel and water. The crossing of Lake Ontario is 55 miles and the weather window was good for this smaller boat with swells of less than a foot and the wind on her stern. After 45 minutes, Trilogymoved up to her fast cruising speed of 15 MPH and would purr along at 3800 RPM and making the 7-hour trip in 5. Yes, we used 22 gallons of fuel and were fine with it. The autopilot and navigation system did all the work with a point selected near an island and the software told the steering system how to get there. Our role is to keep watch, make adjustments and monitor the engine’s performance for any issues. The tug was flawless with no issues or doubts.
Laurie did more research for the coming Rideau Canal, which is pronounced “Reed-oh.” Kingston is a big city with growing skyscrapers, a vibrant urban core that goes to the shoreline. The marina’s dockhands in red polo shirts greeted us at our slip. Customs was cleared by phone and the laundry was started. On this sunny Friday afternoon, a score of sailboats were racing, the sidewalk bars and cafés were busy, and parking was not available in a four-block radius of the marina. Late afternoon and the combination of heat and humidity took its toll on us and we laid low, having taco salad for dinner and reading. Tomorrow, the Rideau Canal is started with a weather forecast of clouds, light winds and the possibility of isolated thundershowers.
Friday, July 13 Crossing Lake Ontario. Three of the looper boats were gone by 0800 hours under clear skies with a fresh breeze from the south at 11 MPH. We waited to see if the forecast would come true that the wind speed would drop to single digits. Millie was different today by not getting out of her hiding spot all morning, not having breakfast and remaining deep under the storage area under the dinette for the five hour trip to Kingston, Ontario. But when the sound of an opening can food was heard at lunchtime, she came out and protested about her circumstances.
Trilogy left Oswego at 1000 hours with a full tank of fuel and water. The crossing of Lake Ontario is 55 miles and the weather window was good for this smaller boat with swells of less than a foot and the wind on her stern. After 45 minutes, Trilogymoved up to her fast cruising speed of 15 MPH and would purr along at 3800 RPM and making the 7-hour trip in 5. Yes, we used 22 gallons of fuel and were fine with it. The autopilot and navigation system did all the work with a point selected near an island and the software told the steering system how to get there. Our role is to keep watch, make adjustments and monitor the engine’s performance for any issues. The tug was flawless with no issues or doubts.
Laurie did more research for the coming Rideau Canal, which is pronounced “Reed-oh.” Kingston is a big city with growing skyscrapers, a vibrant urban core that goes to the shoreline. The marina’s dockhands in red polo shirts greeted us at our slip. Customs was cleared by phone and the laundry was started. On this sunny Friday afternoon, a score of sailboats were racing, the sidewalk bars and cafés were busy, and parking was not available in a four-block radius of the marina. Late afternoon and the combination of heat and humidity took its toll on us and we laid low, having taco salad for dinner and reading. Tomorrow, the Rideau Canal is started with a weather forecast of clouds, light winds and the possibility of isolated thundershowers.
Saturday, July 14 and the start of the Rideau Canal. A brief shower happened about 0530 and the morning would remain cloudy but humid with no wind. Later, the clouds would thin out, become thunderheads and the heat would rise to the high 80’s. Trilogypulled away at about 0830 hours and headed north past the Canadian Royal Military College, under the 18’ high bridge to the Rideau Canal channel markers that start on the Cataraqui River.
Typical for the whole day, the lakes would be wide and broad but the red and green channel markers would only be 50 feet apart and these would look like gates on a downhill ski course because the depths would stay under 10 feet. Though Trilogy would only cover 27 miles, there were probably hundreds of pairs of channel markers and it would take nearly all day to travel the distance because of the 6 mile per hour speed limit through the narrowest parts and transiting 11 locks.
The Rideau Canal was built in the 1830’s and is North America’s longest continuing operating canal system. It is a working museum of then state-of-art design and engineering and the most complex construction situations. The canal connects a maze of rivers and lakes with cut canals and 49 locks. The locks are 80 feet long and 29 feet wide with no pumps and few, if any, electrically powered gates. This is a national park and Parks Canada employees are the human power behind opening and closing valves, gates and many swing bridges.
Rangers at the first set of locks checked our pass and provided teaching on how to transit. We moved from a single point of attachment to the lock wall, to two points because the vinyl covered cables were only 10 feet a part and the water was more turbulent during filling. The lock walls are over 170 years old, made of blocks of sandstone and tilt out from the bottom of the lock. Many times, the level of water in a full lock is only inches from the top of the lock wall. As we handled lines from inside Trilogy, we were grateful for the lower freeboard the tug has.
Trilogy hummed along at 1900 RPM with an occasional brief run at 3800 RPM on the open lakes for a total of 5 hours of motoring. The steering is very active and fun. The marshland near Kingston transitioned to forest and then the long Styx River with meadows of cattails. Some of the lakes were populated with pairs of white swans and their teenagers. Some lakes had cottages when a highway was close-by. Otherwise, it was quiet and serene.
Lunch was at the top of a double set of locks where eight boats were docked. Four were there for moorage and two were waiting on the blue line to lock down. As soon as we docked, Laurie and a woman engaged in an intense conversation as she had started the loop just three days before. The destination was the top of Jones Falls that has its own unique story of engineering. There are three locks in succession, called a flight, followed by a small basin where the canal turns to the north and then a fourth lock.
Each of the locks on this trip takes 30 minutes to transit. We arrived at the bottom of Jones Falls and waited 90 minutes for the southbound boats to lock through. Then, the four locks took nearly two hours to lock through. Boating on a canal system with locks is a lesson in acceptance of what cannot be controlled and to go with the pace provided.
Finishing the locks, there was a spot on the short dock for Trilogy. A parks employee came by to chat and we learned that the canal opens in mid-May and closes in mid-October. The busiest day was 26 boats on Canada Day. We walked to the office and paid the .90 a foot (Canadian) for staying the night. A couple in the mid-70’s were canoeing the Rideau, had portaged around the locks and set up their small tent in the grass. A ski boat brought 3 couples of post high school aged teens and they camped on the shore. Steaks were grilled and served with fresh green beans and the evening was closed with a movie.
Typical for the whole day, the lakes would be wide and broad but the red and green channel markers would only be 50 feet apart and these would look like gates on a downhill ski course because the depths would stay under 10 feet. Though Trilogy would only cover 27 miles, there were probably hundreds of pairs of channel markers and it would take nearly all day to travel the distance because of the 6 mile per hour speed limit through the narrowest parts and transiting 11 locks.
The Rideau Canal was built in the 1830’s and is North America’s longest continuing operating canal system. It is a working museum of then state-of-art design and engineering and the most complex construction situations. The canal connects a maze of rivers and lakes with cut canals and 49 locks. The locks are 80 feet long and 29 feet wide with no pumps and few, if any, electrically powered gates. This is a national park and Parks Canada employees are the human power behind opening and closing valves, gates and many swing bridges.
Rangers at the first set of locks checked our pass and provided teaching on how to transit. We moved from a single point of attachment to the lock wall, to two points because the vinyl covered cables were only 10 feet a part and the water was more turbulent during filling. The lock walls are over 170 years old, made of blocks of sandstone and tilt out from the bottom of the lock. Many times, the level of water in a full lock is only inches from the top of the lock wall. As we handled lines from inside Trilogy, we were grateful for the lower freeboard the tug has.
Trilogy hummed along at 1900 RPM with an occasional brief run at 3800 RPM on the open lakes for a total of 5 hours of motoring. The steering is very active and fun. The marshland near Kingston transitioned to forest and then the long Styx River with meadows of cattails. Some of the lakes were populated with pairs of white swans and their teenagers. Some lakes had cottages when a highway was close-by. Otherwise, it was quiet and serene.
Lunch was at the top of a double set of locks where eight boats were docked. Four were there for moorage and two were waiting on the blue line to lock down. As soon as we docked, Laurie and a woman engaged in an intense conversation as she had started the loop just three days before. The destination was the top of Jones Falls that has its own unique story of engineering. There are three locks in succession, called a flight, followed by a small basin where the canal turns to the north and then a fourth lock.
Each of the locks on this trip takes 30 minutes to transit. We arrived at the bottom of Jones Falls and waited 90 minutes for the southbound boats to lock through. Then, the four locks took nearly two hours to lock through. Boating on a canal system with locks is a lesson in acceptance of what cannot be controlled and to go with the pace provided.
Finishing the locks, there was a spot on the short dock for Trilogy. A parks employee came by to chat and we learned that the canal opens in mid-May and closes in mid-October. The busiest day was 26 boats on Canada Day. We walked to the office and paid the .90 a foot (Canadian) for staying the night. A couple in the mid-70’s were canoeing the Rideau, had portaged around the locks and set up their small tent in the grass. A ski boat brought 3 couples of post high school aged teens and they camped on the shore. Steaks were grilled and served with fresh green beans and the evening was closed with a movie.
Sunday, July 15. The canoeists were paddling away at 0730 hours. Trilogywas underway at 0900 hours and encountered, “The Quarters” which is a short, narrow and winding route to Sand Lake. The name comes from the location of the officer’s quarters during the canal construction and was chosen because it was free of mosquitos whereas the workers and their families were suffering heavily.
9:30 AM came one of the most scenic locks on the canal at Davis Lock. Above the lock, we stopped for a mid-morning snack and found the canoeists were just leaving; they had travelled in two hours what Trilogydid in 30 minutes. We met Brian and Carol who are cruising in a McGregor sailboat and have the ranger tug fever really bad. We spent nearly an hour showing the boat and answering their questions.
The next lock, Newboro, was the busiest on the canal with 9 boats leaving and 6 boats entering. Why was this lock so busy? The proximity to cottages because highways create access, people built cottages, and lots of cottages means lots of boats moving between the lakes. This lock is the highest point on the canal and now Trilogywould be dropping down to Ottawa. The red and green markers switched sides.
Trilogy would spend most of the day on the Upper Rideau Lake and the Big Rideau Lake and the 39 miles covered this day would be easily done because of the fast cruising speed allowed on these big lakes. Rideau Ferry is a small community but the number of ski boats and jet skis on this sunny afternoon would rival any urban lake.
The destination was Smith Falls and the dockage above the first lock was too hot and sunny. An exploratory walk past the Victoria Park showed more opportunities in a larger bay. The day was very hot and humid and Laurie nearly had heat exhaustion. Finally, through the lock, past the RV park and the large bay revealed one spot on the wall. When we saw the live band setting up near this spot, we continued on and found an idyllic spot in the shade that was near the next lock and opposite of the blue line.
Trilogyhad traveled 39 miles in 5 hours of motoring and eight total hours.
9:30 AM came one of the most scenic locks on the canal at Davis Lock. Above the lock, we stopped for a mid-morning snack and found the canoeists were just leaving; they had travelled in two hours what Trilogydid in 30 minutes. We met Brian and Carol who are cruising in a McGregor sailboat and have the ranger tug fever really bad. We spent nearly an hour showing the boat and answering their questions.
The next lock, Newboro, was the busiest on the canal with 9 boats leaving and 6 boats entering. Why was this lock so busy? The proximity to cottages because highways create access, people built cottages, and lots of cottages means lots of boats moving between the lakes. This lock is the highest point on the canal and now Trilogywould be dropping down to Ottawa. The red and green markers switched sides.
Trilogy would spend most of the day on the Upper Rideau Lake and the Big Rideau Lake and the 39 miles covered this day would be easily done because of the fast cruising speed allowed on these big lakes. Rideau Ferry is a small community but the number of ski boats and jet skis on this sunny afternoon would rival any urban lake.
The destination was Smith Falls and the dockage above the first lock was too hot and sunny. An exploratory walk past the Victoria Park showed more opportunities in a larger bay. The day was very hot and humid and Laurie nearly had heat exhaustion. Finally, through the lock, past the RV park and the large bay revealed one spot on the wall. When we saw the live band setting up near this spot, we continued on and found an idyllic spot in the shade that was near the next lock and opposite of the blue line.
Trilogyhad traveled 39 miles in 5 hours of motoring and eight total hours.
Monday, July 16. After breakfast, the bikes were setup for a 10-minute ride to Canadian Tire for wiring parts to add a water pressure switch at the sink. Laurie did a mild provisioning trip at the nearby grocery store because the backup supplies were gone. Afterwards, we spent an hour at the Rideau Canal Museum. The take-a-ways were: The canal was built for military defense after the War of 1812 because “of the rebel republic to the south.” The canal was a commercial hit to move goods and services and created the foundation for towns and population growth. The principle vehicle to move goods was the Durham Boat that was designed in New England. The boat was 8 feet wide, had an 18 inch draft, a folding mast and was 40 to 60 feet long. Expect for the length, our Ranger Tug has many of these traits.
The canal was funded by the British Treasury, designed by the crown’s engineers and built by private contractors. Strips of the vast old-growth forest were clear-cut to build the canal and settlements clear-cut huge swaths to create fields for farming. 1,000 people died while building the canal and most of those were caused by malaria. Colonel John By solved two problems by opting to flood areas with dams: the granite was very difficult to cut and excavate to dig a traditional canal and the mosquito-infested swamps were turned into lakes.
Trilogy traveled 20 miles between 10 AM and 3:00 PM and transited 11 locks. Many of the locks had swing bridges for the highway traffic and several of these were human powered by simply grabbing the bridge and pushing on it. Several of the locks were electrically powered but the transition to motor powered was stopped when it was found that it was not faster. At a very quiet lock that only had a drop of three feet, the ranger told us that the maintenance crew was doing work on one of the lock doors and could we wait. We had lunch while watching the crew drill holes through the 12” by 20” beams and tighten long bolts to control the long cracks in the beams.
Merrickville was an interesting small town that was busy for a Monday afternoon. That would warrant a visit on the next trip. The historic district looked interesting from the locks and a separate narrow canal accessed the small cove with docks.
The destination was Burritt’s Rapids because there was power on the wall and we were looking to use the air conditioning in the humid, 90-degree heat. This was the third straight day of these uncomfortable temperatures. Just before the lock, there was a barrier blocking the canal at a bridge. Seeing no one, a long blast of the boat's horn brought the sole construction worker who opened the barrier for us. As Trilogy approached the wall, two 40 to 50 foot boats dominated the wall and another Ranger 27 was at the end. There was one spot left, where the wall turned 90 degrees and connected to the lock; perfect for a Ranger 27.
Within minutes, we had a nice conversation with Dennis who is from New Jersey and has owned his Ranger 27, Three Cheers, since 2010. He described the few mechanical issues that he had with his Yanmar engine, his expertise at replacing the shear pin in the bow thruster, and the repeated cleanings of the sea strainer while on the canal because of the weeds. Later, we would have a good conversation over ice cream at a nearby bistro with the owners and crew of a Nordic Tug 37 who keep their boat on Oneida Lake on the Erie Canal.
The canal was funded by the British Treasury, designed by the crown’s engineers and built by private contractors. Strips of the vast old-growth forest were clear-cut to build the canal and settlements clear-cut huge swaths to create fields for farming. 1,000 people died while building the canal and most of those were caused by malaria. Colonel John By solved two problems by opting to flood areas with dams: the granite was very difficult to cut and excavate to dig a traditional canal and the mosquito-infested swamps were turned into lakes.
Trilogy traveled 20 miles between 10 AM and 3:00 PM and transited 11 locks. Many of the locks had swing bridges for the highway traffic and several of these were human powered by simply grabbing the bridge and pushing on it. Several of the locks were electrically powered but the transition to motor powered was stopped when it was found that it was not faster. At a very quiet lock that only had a drop of three feet, the ranger told us that the maintenance crew was doing work on one of the lock doors and could we wait. We had lunch while watching the crew drill holes through the 12” by 20” beams and tighten long bolts to control the long cracks in the beams.
Merrickville was an interesting small town that was busy for a Monday afternoon. That would warrant a visit on the next trip. The historic district looked interesting from the locks and a separate narrow canal accessed the small cove with docks.
The destination was Burritt’s Rapids because there was power on the wall and we were looking to use the air conditioning in the humid, 90-degree heat. This was the third straight day of these uncomfortable temperatures. Just before the lock, there was a barrier blocking the canal at a bridge. Seeing no one, a long blast of the boat's horn brought the sole construction worker who opened the barrier for us. As Trilogy approached the wall, two 40 to 50 foot boats dominated the wall and another Ranger 27 was at the end. There was one spot left, where the wall turned 90 degrees and connected to the lock; perfect for a Ranger 27.
Within minutes, we had a nice conversation with Dennis who is from New Jersey and has owned his Ranger 27, Three Cheers, since 2010. He described the few mechanical issues that he had with his Yanmar engine, his expertise at replacing the shear pin in the bow thruster, and the repeated cleanings of the sea strainer while on the canal because of the weeds. Later, we would have a good conversation over ice cream at a nearby bistro with the owners and crew of a Nordic Tug 37 who keep their boat on Oneida Lake on the Erie Canal.
Tuesday, July 17. Using Dennis’ advice, the sea strainer was cleaned for the second time on this trip and very little material was found. By breakfast the temperature and humidity were the same at 78. The Nordic Tug headed south and Dennis would join us in the lock at 0930 hours for the trip north. He would stop at Hurst Marina to have his boat put on its trailer. The canal would be a river the whole day; broad in many areas, narrow in a few and the number of houses on the shore would rise with every mile closer to Ottawa.
We had lunch at the triple lock at Long island Lock and enjoyed the fresh breeze that was coming from the west. We arrived at the double lock and swing bridge at Hogs Back Lock where the lockmaster said that the lift bridge in Ottawa would not open during the afternoon rush hour from 3:30 to 5:30 PM and suggested that a stay at the bottom of this lock would be better than anchoring at Dows Bay.
Parks Canada does an excellent job in selecting, training and leading the employees who work the locks. Without exception, the attitude, demeanor, and helpfulness of all the employees was outstanding. If they could say yes and adhere to the spirit (and not necessarily the letter) of the policy or rule, they would. There is a cultural difference around the topic of expectations between Canadian and U.S. lock operators. In the U.S., boaters must communicate with the lockmasters to receive instructions. In Canada, there is an understanding that the blue line dock before every lock means you want to lock through and when the gates open, you motor in and tie up; there is no conversation just an agreed set of understandings. However, like the U.S. lockmasters, the Canadian employees would call the lock or bridge ahead to prepare them for the boat approaching and many times the lock or bridge was ready for Trilogy.
We would wait 90 minutes here and another 30 minutes at the Pretoria Avenue lift bridge because the bridge operator decided to the delay opening to 6 PM.
Trilogy found a spot with power on the long lock wall in downtown Ottawa at 6:30PM with about 20 other boats and would tie up behind a Ranger Tug 29S, Jubilee. The lock wall moorage is in the heart of Ottawa and there was a host of places to see in easy walking distance. This day would end in downtown Ottawa and we did not plan to travel the Rideau Canal in four days. Trilogycovered 40 miles, 6 locks and motored for 6 hours.
We had lunch at the triple lock at Long island Lock and enjoyed the fresh breeze that was coming from the west. We arrived at the double lock and swing bridge at Hogs Back Lock where the lockmaster said that the lift bridge in Ottawa would not open during the afternoon rush hour from 3:30 to 5:30 PM and suggested that a stay at the bottom of this lock would be better than anchoring at Dows Bay.
Parks Canada does an excellent job in selecting, training and leading the employees who work the locks. Without exception, the attitude, demeanor, and helpfulness of all the employees was outstanding. If they could say yes and adhere to the spirit (and not necessarily the letter) of the policy or rule, they would. There is a cultural difference around the topic of expectations between Canadian and U.S. lock operators. In the U.S., boaters must communicate with the lockmasters to receive instructions. In Canada, there is an understanding that the blue line dock before every lock means you want to lock through and when the gates open, you motor in and tie up; there is no conversation just an agreed set of understandings. However, like the U.S. lockmasters, the Canadian employees would call the lock or bridge ahead to prepare them for the boat approaching and many times the lock or bridge was ready for Trilogy.
We would wait 90 minutes here and another 30 minutes at the Pretoria Avenue lift bridge because the bridge operator decided to the delay opening to 6 PM.
Trilogy found a spot with power on the long lock wall in downtown Ottawa at 6:30PM with about 20 other boats and would tie up behind a Ranger Tug 29S, Jubilee. The lock wall moorage is in the heart of Ottawa and there was a host of places to see in easy walking distance. This day would end in downtown Ottawa and we did not plan to travel the Rideau Canal in four days. Trilogycovered 40 miles, 6 locks and motored for 6 hours.
Wednesday-Thursday, July 18-19: Ottawa. Yesterday’s breeze brought welcome cooler temperatures and sleep was longer and deeper. After breakfast, the changing of the guard was watched for nearly an hour in a huge field by the parliament building. Then, the set of eight locks that are in one flight at the end of the Rideau Canal was explored. After a break to refresh and re-energize, a 90-minute bus tour of the highlights of Ottawa, and a touch of Quebec was done.
With a taste of Ottawa behind us, a walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Byward Market was done on this clear and warming afternoon. Ottawa is consumed with demolition and construction as the older buildings are being rehabilitated and new infrastructure is being added. A city with deep European roots and influence and yet a feel of fierce independence, Ottawa and Quebec seem to co-exist with their differences.
A bagpipe band and a drum corps were listened to before enjoying a dinner at an Irish Pub near the canal. The early evening was spent on Frank’s and Caliee’s Ranger Tug 29S listening and sharing adventures and lessons about cruising. Then, we went to the Northern Lights show that is shown against the massive parliament building and tells the history of Canada.
The next day, having arrived in Ottawa at dinnertime on Tuesday, by the end of Wednesday we had done a lot in 24 hours except rest, slow down and wander. This was a good day for it because it was a bright sunny day, highs in the low 90’s and after the morning exodus of boats, the morning was quiet. The mystery of what lies ahead evaporated after conversations with Frank, Calilee, and Rich and also finding the right chart book in our stash from Ken and Pauline.
Bikes were set up for a ride of the canal, through tree-lined residential streets of old brownstone homes that could have been Boston or New York, and the bike path took us through the working class of old homes and then into the downtown core. The bike paths were great and enjoyed. Back for lunch, Laurie headed out for browsing at stores with her list and I enjoyed the time to write and add a water pressure switch at the galley sink thus saving the effort to constantly use the breaker panel switch.
After dinner, we walked to the parliamentary grounds for an advertised concert of military bands. In the shade of a massive building, we listened to bagpipes band warm-up and tune. The concert lasted 90 minutes and included three bands, musket fire and artillery rounds. The crowd of about 8,000 loved it. Ice cream and frozen yogurt was easily found in the huge Rideau Center, a multi-level mall that was easy walking distance from Trilogy.
With a taste of Ottawa behind us, a walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral and the Byward Market was done on this clear and warming afternoon. Ottawa is consumed with demolition and construction as the older buildings are being rehabilitated and new infrastructure is being added. A city with deep European roots and influence and yet a feel of fierce independence, Ottawa and Quebec seem to co-exist with their differences.
A bagpipe band and a drum corps were listened to before enjoying a dinner at an Irish Pub near the canal. The early evening was spent on Frank’s and Caliee’s Ranger Tug 29S listening and sharing adventures and lessons about cruising. Then, we went to the Northern Lights show that is shown against the massive parliament building and tells the history of Canada.
The next day, having arrived in Ottawa at dinnertime on Tuesday, by the end of Wednesday we had done a lot in 24 hours except rest, slow down and wander. This was a good day for it because it was a bright sunny day, highs in the low 90’s and after the morning exodus of boats, the morning was quiet. The mystery of what lies ahead evaporated after conversations with Frank, Calilee, and Rich and also finding the right chart book in our stash from Ken and Pauline.
Bikes were set up for a ride of the canal, through tree-lined residential streets of old brownstone homes that could have been Boston or New York, and the bike path took us through the working class of old homes and then into the downtown core. The bike paths were great and enjoyed. Back for lunch, Laurie headed out for browsing at stores with her list and I enjoyed the time to write and add a water pressure switch at the galley sink thus saving the effort to constantly use the breaker panel switch.
After dinner, we walked to the parliamentary grounds for an advertised concert of military bands. In the shade of a massive building, we listened to bagpipes band warm-up and tune. The concert lasted 90 minutes and included three bands, musket fire and artillery rounds. The crowd of about 8,000 loved it. Ice cream and frozen yogurt was easily found in the huge Rideau Center, a multi-level mall that was easy walking distance from Trilogy.
Friday, July 20 and the end of the Rideau Canal. Trilogywas moved to the blue line at 0700 hours and was the third boat in line. Optimism was high that these boats would go through the final flight of 8 locks when the operation started at 0900 hours. All 8 locks were completely empty of water and the filling operation would put the closest lock, number 8, in the ready mode. All of those reasons and our optimism evaporated when the walk down to the other end of the flight showed 19 boats triple parked on the blue line and others just drifting around. The lockmaster took pity on those boats and told us that the soonest we would go through would be 1230 hours. The lock crew would put boats in every other lock and essentially move the group of 19 through in small groups. Ottawa was not going to let Trilogy go.
The time was used in different ways. Laurie made friends with the people on the other two boats and when the kayaker whom we met days before on the canal joined our little flotilla, she chatted with him. Both of us cleaned the boat inside and out and did some fiberglass polishing. I went to the changing of the guard and enjoyed another military marching band, caught up on writing, and started to diagnose why the searchlight does not work. We watched canoeists and kayakers portage around the lock and sat on a bench in shade watching the crowds who were watching the park staff work the locks.
Trilogy started the flight of locks at 1PM and to the park staff’s credit, we did 8 locks in 90 minutes and started cruising the Ottawa River. This river is broad and long and is comparable to every major river that we have been on. Unlike the Rideau Canal, the number of navigation markers was few and far between. The magenta line on the chart was used to keep clear of the shallow areas. Also, the autopilot was extensively used. With the current gently pushing Trilogy, it was easy to travel at nearly 9 MPH at the slow cruising speed and over 16 MPH at the fast speed.
After leaving the urban core and seeing the residence of the Prime Minister on the high cliff, the countryside took over with only a smattering of homes, an occasional marina and a glimpse of high traffic. Without a bridge, cable ferries are used to cross the river and these are the craft that pull on a submerged cable. We saw the largest operation of cable ferries that we have seen with four ferries, on separate cables making continuous runs across the ¼ mile wide river. The goal is to not cross in front of a ferry. For a few minutes Trilogyplayed dodge ball with the four ferries as they traveled at different rates.
28 miles after Ottawa, Trilogy found a quiet anchorage behind Clarence Island and dropped the anchor in 10 feet of water. The light breeze was refreshing as the air temperature climbed into the low 90’s. After beer in the cockpit, Laurie took a dip in the water and the cockpit mesh was easily deployed to create much needed shade across the stern. Chicken strips were grilled on the BBQ and fresh green beans were heated on the stove. The anchorage was quiet, serene and peaceful. Tomorrow would be completely different.
The time was used in different ways. Laurie made friends with the people on the other two boats and when the kayaker whom we met days before on the canal joined our little flotilla, she chatted with him. Both of us cleaned the boat inside and out and did some fiberglass polishing. I went to the changing of the guard and enjoyed another military marching band, caught up on writing, and started to diagnose why the searchlight does not work. We watched canoeists and kayakers portage around the lock and sat on a bench in shade watching the crowds who were watching the park staff work the locks.
Trilogy started the flight of locks at 1PM and to the park staff’s credit, we did 8 locks in 90 minutes and started cruising the Ottawa River. This river is broad and long and is comparable to every major river that we have been on. Unlike the Rideau Canal, the number of navigation markers was few and far between. The magenta line on the chart was used to keep clear of the shallow areas. Also, the autopilot was extensively used. With the current gently pushing Trilogy, it was easy to travel at nearly 9 MPH at the slow cruising speed and over 16 MPH at the fast speed.
After leaving the urban core and seeing the residence of the Prime Minister on the high cliff, the countryside took over with only a smattering of homes, an occasional marina and a glimpse of high traffic. Without a bridge, cable ferries are used to cross the river and these are the craft that pull on a submerged cable. We saw the largest operation of cable ferries that we have seen with four ferries, on separate cables making continuous runs across the ¼ mile wide river. The goal is to not cross in front of a ferry. For a few minutes Trilogyplayed dodge ball with the four ferries as they traveled at different rates.
28 miles after Ottawa, Trilogy found a quiet anchorage behind Clarence Island and dropped the anchor in 10 feet of water. The light breeze was refreshing as the air temperature climbed into the low 90’s. After beer in the cockpit, Laurie took a dip in the water and the cockpit mesh was easily deployed to create much needed shade across the stern. Chicken strips were grilled on the BBQ and fresh green beans were heated on the stove. The anchorage was quiet, serene and peaceful. Tomorrow would be completely different.
MONTREAL, QUEBEC TO BURLINGTON, VERMONT
Saturday, July 21 and the Ottawa River. Trilogy was underway by 0715 hours because the day would be long with 72 miles to travel and there would be two locks and a fuel stop. The morning was clear and still and a few persistent mosquitos were waiting for Laurie. For the first two hours, the Ottawa River was flat, broad and only a handful of fishing boats that were working the shoals. Trilogydid a slow fly-by of Montebello, the resort and the town. The resort’s marina and the small marina in the nearby town were both packed with boats. This was our preview of what would happen later in the day.
Not only was this Saturday and brought out all the weekend boaters, but this was the first weekend of the Quebec Construction Holiday, a two-week period where all the construction trades and unions all have a vacation. Though we had hoped to avoid this holiday, weather days and projects had brought us to this period and accepting it was not a matter of choice. There is a distinct profile of boaters on this holiday: newer boats that cruise at 35 knots, often with music blaring that will pass very close and throw a three foot wake; a woman, regardless of age and body type is wearing a string bikini and will be deeply sunburned by the third day; and a mid-age white guy whose belly overhangs his belt.
The fuel stop was at LeFaivre, a small town whose fuel dock was shorter than Trilogybut whose price was 30 cents less per liter than the nearby resort. The guidebooks did not list it. Laurie found it on the AGLCA forum and on Active Captain. This was a local’s place and the dockhand was wonderful and helpful.
Onward, the river would widen to over a mile wide in some places. Much of the larger lakes were very shallow and people were seen standing on the lake bottom next to their boat as they enjoyed the sun and water. The Ontario side of the river was more developed with more houses. The Quebec side of the river was mostly forested to the river’s edge and the development was few and far between. The reason? The access to transportation across the river was very little with only one bridge and a several cable ferries. That would change as we got closer to Montreal with more bridges.
Nearly mid-day and Trilogypassed by the town of Hawksbury that is halfway between Ottawa and Montreal and we felt the first impact of the boaters crowding through the locks as groups of 5 to 7 boats running at 30+ MPH roared at us. In 30 minutes, about 60 fast cruisers, ski boats, runabouts and jet skis met Trilogy.
The Carillon Lock is Park Canada’s highest lift with lock 65 feet and is only about 30 years old. Built large enough to be a lock for commercial traffic that no longer exists, the large lock has a floating dock secured to the floating bollards. The park staff works the dock and ties up the recreational vessels. The lock can handle three boats across and 5 boats long. Sometimes, law enforcement officers work the lock and do safety inspections but not on this day.
The lock angels smiled on Trilogy because the wait was only 5 minutes and only 5 boats were going toward Montreal. When the massive lock doors lifted straight up using the mammoth counter-balance weights, the universe had changed. About 25 boats were waiting for us to leave, the still wind and changed to a fresh breeze on Trilogy’sbow, and the rippled lake surface had changed to white caps.
For the next two hours, we experienced the most populated and chaotic boating experience since New York City harbor. About 250 boats were encountered. Waves of go-fast cruisers came at us as everyone was trying to stay between the red and green markers. Ski boats pulling wake boarders or tubes with yelping kids zigged about. Jet skiers, some in groups of 3 or 4, would swarm toward wakes, cutting hard turns. Then came the sailboat races. Four separate groups of racers protected by race committee boats were strung out on a huge lake and some were away from the group where the go-fast cruisers were plowing ahead. Finally and next to a large marina dominated by sailboats, about 50 large sailboats were randomly tacking back and forth as their full sails heeled the boats at a deep angle.
The day was hot in spite of the wind. Trilogy’s spray from the rough water required that most of the windows remained closed. The heat and the hyper-active steering took its toll on everyone on the tug.
At the final lock of the day, St. Anne’s de Bellevue, the lock angels were again smiling as Trilogy was the last boat in the lock for the three-foot drop. Another go-fast Quebec-er passed us 200 yards from the lock and waked us badly and the irony was we all arrived at the same time. In a few minutes, the gates were closed and the mild drop was done quickly.
The destination was the massive lock wall downstream of the lock. There was concern that the wall would be full given what we had seen. However, a spot for a 27 boat was found. The mesh covering in the cockpit did a good job on shade control and provided some privacy. This was like mooring in the middle of Main Street. The sidewalk was choked with pedestrians, the nearby outdoor restaurants were doing a brisk business and every boat going up or down stream had to pass us. Add to the mix the occasional train and the car traffic from the bridge, and this place was very active.
Dinner was at a seafood restaurant where the fish and chips were wonderful and the garlic shrimp was fantastic. The only set back was the hostess who intentionally seated us in the sun where we silently broiled; guessing that she was having a bad day, did not like English speaking Americans, did not like President Trump or perhaps all of the above.
The weather forecast was for wind and rain and the decision was made to look at a 0600 hours departure the next morning. The concern was the waves caused by the fetch in the large bay that lies downstream of Montreal. As the evening cooled, showers were taken. Laurie and Millie provided entertainment on the dock as the walkers stopped to gawk at the boat cat with the accompanying storytelling.
Saturday, July 21 and the Ottawa River. Trilogy was underway by 0715 hours because the day would be long with 72 miles to travel and there would be two locks and a fuel stop. The morning was clear and still and a few persistent mosquitos were waiting for Laurie. For the first two hours, the Ottawa River was flat, broad and only a handful of fishing boats that were working the shoals. Trilogydid a slow fly-by of Montebello, the resort and the town. The resort’s marina and the small marina in the nearby town were both packed with boats. This was our preview of what would happen later in the day.
Not only was this Saturday and brought out all the weekend boaters, but this was the first weekend of the Quebec Construction Holiday, a two-week period where all the construction trades and unions all have a vacation. Though we had hoped to avoid this holiday, weather days and projects had brought us to this period and accepting it was not a matter of choice. There is a distinct profile of boaters on this holiday: newer boats that cruise at 35 knots, often with music blaring that will pass very close and throw a three foot wake; a woman, regardless of age and body type is wearing a string bikini and will be deeply sunburned by the third day; and a mid-age white guy whose belly overhangs his belt.
The fuel stop was at LeFaivre, a small town whose fuel dock was shorter than Trilogybut whose price was 30 cents less per liter than the nearby resort. The guidebooks did not list it. Laurie found it on the AGLCA forum and on Active Captain. This was a local’s place and the dockhand was wonderful and helpful.
Onward, the river would widen to over a mile wide in some places. Much of the larger lakes were very shallow and people were seen standing on the lake bottom next to their boat as they enjoyed the sun and water. The Ontario side of the river was more developed with more houses. The Quebec side of the river was mostly forested to the river’s edge and the development was few and far between. The reason? The access to transportation across the river was very little with only one bridge and a several cable ferries. That would change as we got closer to Montreal with more bridges.
Nearly mid-day and Trilogypassed by the town of Hawksbury that is halfway between Ottawa and Montreal and we felt the first impact of the boaters crowding through the locks as groups of 5 to 7 boats running at 30+ MPH roared at us. In 30 minutes, about 60 fast cruisers, ski boats, runabouts and jet skis met Trilogy.
The Carillon Lock is Park Canada’s highest lift with lock 65 feet and is only about 30 years old. Built large enough to be a lock for commercial traffic that no longer exists, the large lock has a floating dock secured to the floating bollards. The park staff works the dock and ties up the recreational vessels. The lock can handle three boats across and 5 boats long. Sometimes, law enforcement officers work the lock and do safety inspections but not on this day.
The lock angels smiled on Trilogy because the wait was only 5 minutes and only 5 boats were going toward Montreal. When the massive lock doors lifted straight up using the mammoth counter-balance weights, the universe had changed. About 25 boats were waiting for us to leave, the still wind and changed to a fresh breeze on Trilogy’sbow, and the rippled lake surface had changed to white caps.
For the next two hours, we experienced the most populated and chaotic boating experience since New York City harbor. About 250 boats were encountered. Waves of go-fast cruisers came at us as everyone was trying to stay between the red and green markers. Ski boats pulling wake boarders or tubes with yelping kids zigged about. Jet skiers, some in groups of 3 or 4, would swarm toward wakes, cutting hard turns. Then came the sailboat races. Four separate groups of racers protected by race committee boats were strung out on a huge lake and some were away from the group where the go-fast cruisers were plowing ahead. Finally and next to a large marina dominated by sailboats, about 50 large sailboats were randomly tacking back and forth as their full sails heeled the boats at a deep angle.
The day was hot in spite of the wind. Trilogy’s spray from the rough water required that most of the windows remained closed. The heat and the hyper-active steering took its toll on everyone on the tug.
At the final lock of the day, St. Anne’s de Bellevue, the lock angels were again smiling as Trilogy was the last boat in the lock for the three-foot drop. Another go-fast Quebec-er passed us 200 yards from the lock and waked us badly and the irony was we all arrived at the same time. In a few minutes, the gates were closed and the mild drop was done quickly.
The destination was the massive lock wall downstream of the lock. There was concern that the wall would be full given what we had seen. However, a spot for a 27 boat was found. The mesh covering in the cockpit did a good job on shade control and provided some privacy. This was like mooring in the middle of Main Street. The sidewalk was choked with pedestrians, the nearby outdoor restaurants were doing a brisk business and every boat going up or down stream had to pass us. Add to the mix the occasional train and the car traffic from the bridge, and this place was very active.
Dinner was at a seafood restaurant where the fish and chips were wonderful and the garlic shrimp was fantastic. The only set back was the hostess who intentionally seated us in the sun where we silently broiled; guessing that she was having a bad day, did not like English speaking Americans, did not like President Trump or perhaps all of the above.
The weather forecast was for wind and rain and the decision was made to look at a 0600 hours departure the next morning. The concern was the waves caused by the fetch in the large bay that lies downstream of Montreal. As the evening cooled, showers were taken. Laurie and Millie provided entertainment on the dock as the walkers stopped to gawk at the boat cat with the accompanying storytelling.
Monday-Tuesday-Wednesday, July 23-24-25. The folding bikes would play a big part in enjoying and exploring the old port district of Montreal. With only a few days, we accepted the fact that our attention would focus on the old city, a large district with narrow streets, over 100-year old buildings with no spaces between them and were contained behind a wall for protection. Though the wall is gone, the foundation can be seen in many places. Montreal has a distinct European flavor both in architecture and food, French is the dominant language, and the feeling of the deep roots of European culture. 25% of the population is first generation immigrants from many places. Over the course of the next three days, only one formal tour was done though we toyed with the notion of doing more but the cost was either too rich for our blood or the places they were going we had either biked or walked to.
The stay in Montreal was extended by two days due to weather: gusty winds from the south reaching 25+ MPH with scattered rain cells was fine for the St. Lawrence Seaway because the wind would be behind Trilogy and covering the 44 miles to Sorel would be fast. But, the marinas in Sorel received mixed reviews and going into the wind on Richelieu Canal in these high winds was problematic. The decision was where to spend two days waiting for better weather and Montreal was the choice.
The city has good bike paths both along the waterfront and in the urban core. On the densely packed city streets, rather than setting aside bike lanes on each side of the street, a two-way bike lane is carved out of the right-of-way only on one side. Also, rather than bike lanes on every street, only a couple of streets have bike lanes. Unlike Seattle and Portland, Oregon where bikes have a higher status than cars, there are streets and bridges where cyclists must walk their bikes and some downtown streets have banned all vehicles and turned them into walking only.
The morning was spent exploring the bike paths and taking in the sights. A provisioning run was made to the nearby IGA store that was well stocked with a lot of variety. After the tug was re-provisioned, Montreal’s Notre Dame was located and then the large area that was chock full of small cafés was explored and lunch was sharing a crepe. In the afternoon, Laurie explored a museum while I napped and then we found a Ben and Jerry’s shop. Dinner was a grilled steak on the BBQ and the evening was closed with a movie.
Rain woke me up in the darkness and the hatch and windows to the south were closed. Like the day before, the day would be cloudy, highs in the high 70’s with humidity to match the temperature, and an occasional rain cell would douse the area.
After breakfast, the bikes took us nearly 4 miles along the original canal, the Lachine Canal, that is used only for recreational vessels with an air-draft of 8 feet or less. The wind was gusting in the high teens from the south and this would continue into the next day. In the 1800’s the canal was the blood artery for the Montreal economy because factories, grain silos and industry lined both sides of the canal as boats brought items to market and took product to customers. Today, the canal is Parks Canada property, the five locks are only occasionally used, a few of the old factories have been converted into residential properties, and the shoreline is bike trails, walking trails, and picnic areas. At least a dozen residential medium high-rise buildings are under construction.
We discovered the large farmers market and enjoyed the variety of products, food available and had lunch. Cycling back to the historical core one museum was closed and another was passed on due to reviews. Back at the boat, Laurie took a nap while I learned the searchlight was not repairable and finished cleaning the engine room. We had wine and crackers with Debbie and Walter on their Grand Banks 42. They started the loop and are headed upstream on the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Thousand Islands and the Great Lakes.
Laurie had found a food tour of historic Montreal that is a combination of food and history. She booked it because it was unusual. The next morning, the wind was still up and day would live up to the forecast: blustery, cloudy, humid and periods of rain.
We met the tour at a café that was in one of the oldest bank buildings in the city. There were 11 people from Norway, Australia, New Jersey and Texas. Our guide, Christian, is a Montreal native and for the next 3 hours weaved in the history of the city as we walked past historic building and visited 5 cafés where a pre-selected item was waiting for us. A great experience and a highlight.
Afterwards, we walked to a museum that captured the chronology of Montreal and then walked through the busy urban core to a grocery store. Back at Trilogy, another load of laundry was done before the skies opened up with a very heavy, soaking rain. Grilled cheese sandwiches and gin rummy closed the evening. We were still full from the food tour scrumptious delights!
The stay in Montreal was extended by two days due to weather: gusty winds from the south reaching 25+ MPH with scattered rain cells was fine for the St. Lawrence Seaway because the wind would be behind Trilogy and covering the 44 miles to Sorel would be fast. But, the marinas in Sorel received mixed reviews and going into the wind on Richelieu Canal in these high winds was problematic. The decision was where to spend two days waiting for better weather and Montreal was the choice.
The city has good bike paths both along the waterfront and in the urban core. On the densely packed city streets, rather than setting aside bike lanes on each side of the street, a two-way bike lane is carved out of the right-of-way only on one side. Also, rather than bike lanes on every street, only a couple of streets have bike lanes. Unlike Seattle and Portland, Oregon where bikes have a higher status than cars, there are streets and bridges where cyclists must walk their bikes and some downtown streets have banned all vehicles and turned them into walking only.
The morning was spent exploring the bike paths and taking in the sights. A provisioning run was made to the nearby IGA store that was well stocked with a lot of variety. After the tug was re-provisioned, Montreal’s Notre Dame was located and then the large area that was chock full of small cafés was explored and lunch was sharing a crepe. In the afternoon, Laurie explored a museum while I napped and then we found a Ben and Jerry’s shop. Dinner was a grilled steak on the BBQ and the evening was closed with a movie.
Rain woke me up in the darkness and the hatch and windows to the south were closed. Like the day before, the day would be cloudy, highs in the high 70’s with humidity to match the temperature, and an occasional rain cell would douse the area.
After breakfast, the bikes took us nearly 4 miles along the original canal, the Lachine Canal, that is used only for recreational vessels with an air-draft of 8 feet or less. The wind was gusting in the high teens from the south and this would continue into the next day. In the 1800’s the canal was the blood artery for the Montreal economy because factories, grain silos and industry lined both sides of the canal as boats brought items to market and took product to customers. Today, the canal is Parks Canada property, the five locks are only occasionally used, a few of the old factories have been converted into residential properties, and the shoreline is bike trails, walking trails, and picnic areas. At least a dozen residential medium high-rise buildings are under construction.
We discovered the large farmers market and enjoyed the variety of products, food available and had lunch. Cycling back to the historical core one museum was closed and another was passed on due to reviews. Back at the boat, Laurie took a nap while I learned the searchlight was not repairable and finished cleaning the engine room. We had wine and crackers with Debbie and Walter on their Grand Banks 42. They started the loop and are headed upstream on the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Thousand Islands and the Great Lakes.
Laurie had found a food tour of historic Montreal that is a combination of food and history. She booked it because it was unusual. The next morning, the wind was still up and day would live up to the forecast: blustery, cloudy, humid and periods of rain.
We met the tour at a café that was in one of the oldest bank buildings in the city. There were 11 people from Norway, Australia, New Jersey and Texas. Our guide, Christian, is a Montreal native and for the next 3 hours weaved in the history of the city as we walked past historic building and visited 5 cafés where a pre-selected item was waiting for us. A great experience and a highlight.
Afterwards, we walked to a museum that captured the chronology of Montreal and then walked through the busy urban core to a grocery store. Back at Trilogy, another load of laundry was done before the skies opened up with a very heavy, soaking rain. Grilled cheese sandwiches and gin rummy closed the evening. We were still full from the food tour scrumptious delights!
Thursday, July 26 the start of the Richelieu River and heading south. The weather forecast was spot-on with light winds from the south and heavy cloud cover. The humidity would continue to challenge us being between 70 and 80%. We knew that this could be a long travel day if the conditions remained good. By the end of the day, Trilogy would travel 90 miles in 10 hours. The route was laughable, 44 miles north on the St. Lawrence Seaway and then turn south for 46 miles. When we stopped for the day in Chambly, Trilogy was about 35 miles southeast of Montreal.
We left the Montreal Yacht Club at 0715 hours and immediately surfed the 7-knot current that was coming off the rapids in this narrow part of the St. Lawrence River and Trilogywas doing 13 MPH. The heavy industrial area of freighters at anchor and at the heavy wharf and the acres of shipping containers would last for several miles. The clouds stayed low for several hours with an occasional drizzle, hiding the tops of the electrical transmission cables. Trilogy’s running lights and radar were operating.
Laurie shared the history of the area, the deportation of people whom the majority was afraid of, the conquest of New France by Britain and the brief conquest by the Americans during the revolutionary war and their huge mistake of bringing small pox and closing the Catholic churches. The French culture stayed alive in the small farming communities.
Two hours into the trip, a moderate rain shower was motored through and the French community of Vercheres was passed. 1115 hours, Trilogy came to Sorel where the Richelieu River empties into the St. Lawrence. The St. Lawrence River had carried the tug along at a steady 2 knot current.
Sorel is an industrial town and some of the rusting hulks of the past on the Richelieu River. Cornfields and other farming took over, except for the occasional housing development with private docks. Communities came and went with houses on the shoreline, small marinas with no wake zones, and the occasional boat pulling a wake boarder or a tube with kids. Wonderful small French towns like Saint Roch de Richelieu, Saint Ours, Saint Denis sur Richelieu, Saint Antoine sur Richelieu, Saint Charles sur Richelieu, Saint Marc sur Richelieu, Beloeil, Saint Mathias sur Richelieu. Each community had a huge Catholic Church visible from the river.
After Saint Mathias sur Richelieu, the river widens into the Chambly Basin with the town of Chambly on the southern shore and the start of the Canal de Chambly. Laurie called the lockmaster by phone because there is a wall with power above the three locks that are built as a flight. If there was not room, there were two other options: anchor at the foot of the huge Catholic Church or stay on the lock wall. The lockmaster said there was room for Trilogy on the wall above the locks. The tug was alone in the locks as it raised us above the lake level in three steps.
After docktails, hamburgers were grilled and the small town was walked through. A public Zumba class was being held in the city park, the outdoor restaurants were doing a brisk business and we found the best gelato on the trip. The evening was closed with a music video as a handful of the town’s teenagers fished for perch off the lock wall.
We left the Montreal Yacht Club at 0715 hours and immediately surfed the 7-knot current that was coming off the rapids in this narrow part of the St. Lawrence River and Trilogywas doing 13 MPH. The heavy industrial area of freighters at anchor and at the heavy wharf and the acres of shipping containers would last for several miles. The clouds stayed low for several hours with an occasional drizzle, hiding the tops of the electrical transmission cables. Trilogy’s running lights and radar were operating.
Laurie shared the history of the area, the deportation of people whom the majority was afraid of, the conquest of New France by Britain and the brief conquest by the Americans during the revolutionary war and their huge mistake of bringing small pox and closing the Catholic churches. The French culture stayed alive in the small farming communities.
Two hours into the trip, a moderate rain shower was motored through and the French community of Vercheres was passed. 1115 hours, Trilogy came to Sorel where the Richelieu River empties into the St. Lawrence. The St. Lawrence River had carried the tug along at a steady 2 knot current.
Sorel is an industrial town and some of the rusting hulks of the past on the Richelieu River. Cornfields and other farming took over, except for the occasional housing development with private docks. Communities came and went with houses on the shoreline, small marinas with no wake zones, and the occasional boat pulling a wake boarder or a tube with kids. Wonderful small French towns like Saint Roch de Richelieu, Saint Ours, Saint Denis sur Richelieu, Saint Antoine sur Richelieu, Saint Charles sur Richelieu, Saint Marc sur Richelieu, Beloeil, Saint Mathias sur Richelieu. Each community had a huge Catholic Church visible from the river.
After Saint Mathias sur Richelieu, the river widens into the Chambly Basin with the town of Chambly on the southern shore and the start of the Canal de Chambly. Laurie called the lockmaster by phone because there is a wall with power above the three locks that are built as a flight. If there was not room, there were two other options: anchor at the foot of the huge Catholic Church or stay on the lock wall. The lockmaster said there was room for Trilogy on the wall above the locks. The tug was alone in the locks as it raised us above the lake level in three steps.
After docktails, hamburgers were grilled and the small town was walked through. A public Zumba class was being held in the city park, the outdoor restaurants were doing a brisk business and we found the best gelato on the trip. The evening was closed with a music video as a handful of the town’s teenagers fished for perch off the lock wall.
Friday, July 27 and the Canal de Chambly. The morning started with a walk to the nearby Fort Chambly that was built to defend Canada “from the pesky Americans” following the War of 1812. We also got a glimpse of the rapids that is the natural river. Back at Trilogy, a Parks Canada employee told us that Trilogy would be number 3 of 6 boats going in the same lock and our start time was in 10 minutes at 0900.
Traveling 36 miles would take nearly the whole day but the distance does not describe the journey. The Canal de Chambly was carved out of the dirt and rock in the 1840’s to move wood products around the wide and shallow Richelieu River as it spilled downstream over rocks. The canal is 10 miles long, has 9 locks and 9 bridges is about 20 feet across and with a depth of 5 to 6 feet that will cause the deep draft vessel captains anxiety and heartburn. These 10 miles will take 4.5 hours to travel mainly because of the time it takes for the group of boats to find their places in the lock.
The first three locks are close together. The next lock is about ¼ mile away and these four locks took two hours to transit. French speaking residents of Quebec ran the other 5 boats. The Parks Canada staff easily moved from French to English and they seemed to know that we are English speakers – must be the American flag on the transom. The canal has bike trails on both sides and cyclists were easily going faster than the boats.
The Parks Canada staff run a tight operation by assigning boats to a spot in the lock, enforcing the 6 MPH speed limit by timing the boats as they travel for 90 minutes between two groups of locks because boats coming in the other direction must be timed and coordinated so on-coming boats can pass in the few wide spaces and bridge openings do no create too much chaos in the town. Also, the bridge tenders will drive from one bridge to another to open and close them.
The scenery was just great. At the start, Trilogy was in the heart of the town of Chambly and within two miles this faded away to cornfields. Then came the town of Saint Jean Sur Richelieu and the canal was next to busy city streets with shops, traffic and stop lights.
With the canal behind us, Trilogy was on the Richelieu River, which at some arbitrary point became Lake Champlain. The lake is over 500 feet across with variety of depths including very shallow ones. The dark clouds created a spontaneous rainsquall that soaked the tug for about 15 minutes and then continued past. 20 miles later, Trilogy crossed into the U.S. and stopped at the temporary customs dock and trailer that is under U.S. highway 2 – the same highway that we travel nearly everyday on in Snohomish County, Washington. Our check-in as quick, easy and done by very helpful and pleasant Customs Border Protection Officers.
With the afternoon coming to a close and the south wind kicking up the lake, we were looking for a marina and the reviews on the Active Captain website directed us to the Gaines Marina. We found a down-to-earth and sincerely friendly staff whose dockage rates were great and the price of diesel was $2 less per gallon than in Canada. Laurie made a phone call to the marina in Burlington for the next day and was able to book a spot in the full marina because of a last minute cancellation.
Traveling 36 miles would take nearly the whole day but the distance does not describe the journey. The Canal de Chambly was carved out of the dirt and rock in the 1840’s to move wood products around the wide and shallow Richelieu River as it spilled downstream over rocks. The canal is 10 miles long, has 9 locks and 9 bridges is about 20 feet across and with a depth of 5 to 6 feet that will cause the deep draft vessel captains anxiety and heartburn. These 10 miles will take 4.5 hours to travel mainly because of the time it takes for the group of boats to find their places in the lock.
The first three locks are close together. The next lock is about ¼ mile away and these four locks took two hours to transit. French speaking residents of Quebec ran the other 5 boats. The Parks Canada staff easily moved from French to English and they seemed to know that we are English speakers – must be the American flag on the transom. The canal has bike trails on both sides and cyclists were easily going faster than the boats.
The Parks Canada staff run a tight operation by assigning boats to a spot in the lock, enforcing the 6 MPH speed limit by timing the boats as they travel for 90 minutes between two groups of locks because boats coming in the other direction must be timed and coordinated so on-coming boats can pass in the few wide spaces and bridge openings do no create too much chaos in the town. Also, the bridge tenders will drive from one bridge to another to open and close them.
The scenery was just great. At the start, Trilogy was in the heart of the town of Chambly and within two miles this faded away to cornfields. Then came the town of Saint Jean Sur Richelieu and the canal was next to busy city streets with shops, traffic and stop lights.
With the canal behind us, Trilogy was on the Richelieu River, which at some arbitrary point became Lake Champlain. The lake is over 500 feet across with variety of depths including very shallow ones. The dark clouds created a spontaneous rainsquall that soaked the tug for about 15 minutes and then continued past. 20 miles later, Trilogy crossed into the U.S. and stopped at the temporary customs dock and trailer that is under U.S. highway 2 – the same highway that we travel nearly everyday on in Snohomish County, Washington. Our check-in as quick, easy and done by very helpful and pleasant Customs Border Protection Officers.
With the afternoon coming to a close and the south wind kicking up the lake, we were looking for a marina and the reviews on the Active Captain website directed us to the Gaines Marina. We found a down-to-earth and sincerely friendly staff whose dockage rates were great and the price of diesel was $2 less per gallon than in Canada. Laurie made a phone call to the marina in Burlington for the next day and was able to book a spot in the full marina because of a last minute cancellation.
BURLINGTON, VERMONT AND THROUGH THE ERIE CANAL
Saturday, July 28 and the start of Lake Champlain.The morning wind forecasts were 5 to 15 MPH from the south for nearly the whole day. Trilogy pulled away from the dock at 0715 hours and about a mile later went around a long break water that illustrated the need to block the wind waves caused by a consistent wind flow from the south that over the 70 mile length of the main lake, will create serious waves.
For the next four hours, Trilogy will take the 1-2 foot waves and later more 3 footers on the bow. The boat handling strategy is to forget about fuel efficiency and work to find the best and safest ride possible or what we called, “Slogging Speed.” At 3100 RPM, the bow is highest, the waves hit the hull at about ¼ of the length back and very little spray hits the windshield. The speed is 10 MPH and the engine is using 4 GPH.
The land is heavily forested on both shores and continues into the hills. Like Chesapeake Bay, the marinas are loaded with large sailboats. Laurie told the story of the battles during the Revolutionary War that occurred here. We arrived in Burlington, Vermont’s largest city of 47,000 and found the waterfront was busy with a festival that had live bands, exhibits and the marina that we will stay at is hosting an antique boat show. Trilogy slid into tight spot that is perfect for a 27-foot boat with an 8’ 6” beam and only draws 2.5 feet. The stern of the massive sightseeing ship, the Ethan Allen III was only 6 feet away and though the ship left 4 times a day for a tour, it had almost no impact on us. We were in the same row as the antique boats and within minutes of landing, Laurie was answering questions about the not-so-antique tug.
After lunch, the bikes were set up and we cycled the bike paths through the festival and the crowds from throughout the region who were enjoying the weather. The weather changed quickly with two cells of thunderstorms passing through, changing the direction and speed of the wind and dropping a lot of rain very quickly. We found cover and waited both of them to pass. Then, the bikes were parked and we walked up to Church Street where Burlington had closed the street to cars for at least 6 blocks and every store and outdoor restaurant was doing a brisk business.
Burlington is an incubator for liberals. Being both a college town and in the center of New England, the demographic is primarily white and middle to upper middle class people. T-shirts and Birkenstocks are the summer uniform. We took it all in and enjoyed ice cream at Ben and Jerry’s that started in Burlington in 1978. There were no recognizable chain grocery stores but the local one was good, a blend of Trader Joes and Whole Foods without the steep prices and the backpacks were filled.
After docktails, hot dogs were grilled on the BBQ and served with green beans. A new band was performing and we could plainly hear it 300 yards from the venue and watched the sunset on the shoreline. It was an amazing one!
Saturday, July 28 and the start of Lake Champlain.The morning wind forecasts were 5 to 15 MPH from the south for nearly the whole day. Trilogy pulled away from the dock at 0715 hours and about a mile later went around a long break water that illustrated the need to block the wind waves caused by a consistent wind flow from the south that over the 70 mile length of the main lake, will create serious waves.
For the next four hours, Trilogy will take the 1-2 foot waves and later more 3 footers on the bow. The boat handling strategy is to forget about fuel efficiency and work to find the best and safest ride possible or what we called, “Slogging Speed.” At 3100 RPM, the bow is highest, the waves hit the hull at about ¼ of the length back and very little spray hits the windshield. The speed is 10 MPH and the engine is using 4 GPH.
The land is heavily forested on both shores and continues into the hills. Like Chesapeake Bay, the marinas are loaded with large sailboats. Laurie told the story of the battles during the Revolutionary War that occurred here. We arrived in Burlington, Vermont’s largest city of 47,000 and found the waterfront was busy with a festival that had live bands, exhibits and the marina that we will stay at is hosting an antique boat show. Trilogy slid into tight spot that is perfect for a 27-foot boat with an 8’ 6” beam and only draws 2.5 feet. The stern of the massive sightseeing ship, the Ethan Allen III was only 6 feet away and though the ship left 4 times a day for a tour, it had almost no impact on us. We were in the same row as the antique boats and within minutes of landing, Laurie was answering questions about the not-so-antique tug.
After lunch, the bikes were set up and we cycled the bike paths through the festival and the crowds from throughout the region who were enjoying the weather. The weather changed quickly with two cells of thunderstorms passing through, changing the direction and speed of the wind and dropping a lot of rain very quickly. We found cover and waited both of them to pass. Then, the bikes were parked and we walked up to Church Street where Burlington had closed the street to cars for at least 6 blocks and every store and outdoor restaurant was doing a brisk business.
Burlington is an incubator for liberals. Being both a college town and in the center of New England, the demographic is primarily white and middle to upper middle class people. T-shirts and Birkenstocks are the summer uniform. We took it all in and enjoyed ice cream at Ben and Jerry’s that started in Burlington in 1978. There were no recognizable chain grocery stores but the local one was good, a blend of Trader Joes and Whole Foods without the steep prices and the backpacks were filled.
After docktails, hot dogs were grilled on the BBQ and served with green beans. A new band was performing and we could plainly hear it 300 yards from the venue and watched the sunset on the shoreline. It was an amazing one!
Sunday, July 29. The volatile weather had passed and day would be cooler with partly cloudy skies, little wind and flat water. We walked the 8 minutes to St. Paul’s Episcopal Cathedral for the 0930 service. The people were outwardly pleasant but not demonstrably nice or friendly as almost no one engaged with us on any level. The service was good, the organ music was outstanding and the message was worthwhile.
We asked each other the question, should we stay the rest of the day and night here? When the answer was, “I am not feeling the need to,” the tug was prepared for departure and within 45 minutes, Trilogy left the dock at 1130 and headed south. The water was flat, the winds were calm and there was no threat of the storms of yesterday.
The boating season on Lake Champlain is May to October and with that window of opportunity, today was an example of lots of boat use. Trilogy did its normal pattern of 45 minutes at 2200 RPM’s, 8.2 MPH and using 2.0 gallons an hour and filling the hour at a cleansing speed that exercised the turbo charger at 3800 RPM, 15 MPH and used 7.2 gallons per hour. Wakes would be an issue and the strategy to deal with them was different if they were oncoming or being caused by vessels passing the tug. On-coming wakes are easy, just stay the course because the angle they hit the tug is like quartering waves. However, wakes caused by vessels passing the tug are another matter. Most of these, the tug is turned to take them bow on. Much depends on the passing vessel, if it is a piece-of-shit Sea Ray or a piece-of-shit Carver 52 footer, these wakes are often 3 feet high and very close together. The tug will take these on the bow and at a very low speed or damage occurs inside the cabin by things falling over.
The destination options were anchorages that provided protection from southerly winds. Laurie had identified three options and the third was chosen. Giards Bay is really a wide place in the river where there was significant land protection. The anchor was dropped in 4 feet of water at 3:30 PM after traveling 37 miles. The shoreline has summer homes that are widely spaced apart. The forest provided shade for the homes. Most homes had a boat swinging on a mooring ball. Above the short rise from the water, farmland extended outward.
The afternoon was pleasantly quiet and there was little boat traffic that caused wakes. Shade protection and fans was the defense for the temperatures in the high 80’s.
We asked each other the question, should we stay the rest of the day and night here? When the answer was, “I am not feeling the need to,” the tug was prepared for departure and within 45 minutes, Trilogy left the dock at 1130 and headed south. The water was flat, the winds were calm and there was no threat of the storms of yesterday.
The boating season on Lake Champlain is May to October and with that window of opportunity, today was an example of lots of boat use. Trilogy did its normal pattern of 45 minutes at 2200 RPM’s, 8.2 MPH and using 2.0 gallons an hour and filling the hour at a cleansing speed that exercised the turbo charger at 3800 RPM, 15 MPH and used 7.2 gallons per hour. Wakes would be an issue and the strategy to deal with them was different if they were oncoming or being caused by vessels passing the tug. On-coming wakes are easy, just stay the course because the angle they hit the tug is like quartering waves. However, wakes caused by vessels passing the tug are another matter. Most of these, the tug is turned to take them bow on. Much depends on the passing vessel, if it is a piece-of-shit Sea Ray or a piece-of-shit Carver 52 footer, these wakes are often 3 feet high and very close together. The tug will take these on the bow and at a very low speed or damage occurs inside the cabin by things falling over.
The destination options were anchorages that provided protection from southerly winds. Laurie had identified three options and the third was chosen. Giards Bay is really a wide place in the river where there was significant land protection. The anchor was dropped in 4 feet of water at 3:30 PM after traveling 37 miles. The shoreline has summer homes that are widely spaced apart. The forest provided shade for the homes. Most homes had a boat swinging on a mooring ball. Above the short rise from the water, farmland extended outward.
The afternoon was pleasantly quiet and there was little boat traffic that caused wakes. Shade protection and fans was the defense for the temperatures in the high 80’s.
Monday, July 30 and the Champlain Canal, New York State Canal System. The night was calm and peaceful. The anchor was raised at 0800 hours and Trilogy headed south on Lake Champlain that had narrowed down to resemble a large river. The Coast Guard was really skimpy on the buoys that marked the shallow areas leaving the boater to pay closer attention to the chartplotter.
The replica of Fort Ticonderoga was passed by and this would be another example of not having a dock for boaters to access the park. The story of the fort is about its strategic location and involved conquests by the French, British and the Americans in the 1700’s. The abundance of birdlife increased dramatically when the lake was within the boundaries of Adirondack State Park. Dozens of herons, egrets, eagles and osprey had a food supply that was likely directed related to the quality of water in the park.
Whitehall, New York was the birthplace of the U.S. Navy when a fleet of ships was built to combat the British invasion from the north. Today, the Lock and Dam #12 marks the end of the end of Lake Champlain and the beginning of the Champlain Canal system of 11 locks that will end near Waterford, New York. The canal system is a combination of rivers and man-made canals and Trilogy started a 6 mile long canal, arrow straight and is 100 feet wide.
About every hour, we would go through a lock and be the only boat in the lock. Only about 10 recreational boats were seen all day. Nearly all the locks were waiting and ready for us and the lift or descent time was very short. At 4:15 PM, we passed through Lock 7 at Fort Edward, New York and took the short canal to the free wall that is maintained by the canal system. This would be the highest wall that we had docked on but the number of ladders recessed into the wall made the issue only a minor one. 59 miles were covered in 8 hours. There was one other sailboat on the wall.
We walked about town for about 30 minutes and the old part of the town near the canal was really sad with closed stores, buildings in dis-repair, and no sign of energy or hope that the future was going to be better. Dinner was lasagna and was closed with a movie.
The replica of Fort Ticonderoga was passed by and this would be another example of not having a dock for boaters to access the park. The story of the fort is about its strategic location and involved conquests by the French, British and the Americans in the 1700’s. The abundance of birdlife increased dramatically when the lake was within the boundaries of Adirondack State Park. Dozens of herons, egrets, eagles and osprey had a food supply that was likely directed related to the quality of water in the park.
Whitehall, New York was the birthplace of the U.S. Navy when a fleet of ships was built to combat the British invasion from the north. Today, the Lock and Dam #12 marks the end of the end of Lake Champlain and the beginning of the Champlain Canal system of 11 locks that will end near Waterford, New York. The canal system is a combination of rivers and man-made canals and Trilogy started a 6 mile long canal, arrow straight and is 100 feet wide.
About every hour, we would go through a lock and be the only boat in the lock. Only about 10 recreational boats were seen all day. Nearly all the locks were waiting and ready for us and the lift or descent time was very short. At 4:15 PM, we passed through Lock 7 at Fort Edward, New York and took the short canal to the free wall that is maintained by the canal system. This would be the highest wall that we had docked on but the number of ladders recessed into the wall made the issue only a minor one. 59 miles were covered in 8 hours. There was one other sailboat on the wall.
We walked about town for about 30 minutes and the old part of the town near the canal was really sad with closed stores, buildings in dis-repair, and no sign of energy or hope that the future was going to be better. Dinner was lasagna and was closed with a movie.
Tuesday, July 31 and started the eastern portion of the Erie Canal in Waterford. This would beanother day with heavy dew on the cabin of the tug. The morning was cloudy, warm, and the air was still the caused the canal to be mirror flat. We pulled away from the wall at 0815 hours, went passed Lock 7 and the canal joined the Hudson River into one wide passage way. Throughout the first part of the day, Trilogy would run the river and then the navigational buoys would take her to a diversion canal that was 100 feet wide to where a lock would be.
Trilogy would travel 37 miles and go through 6 locks in 6 hours. This is region is doted with small towns such as Fort Miller, Schuylerville, Victory, Stillwater, Mechanicville, and Waterford. Between them is farmland that was carved out of the forest. The shoreline is forested with a sprinkling of full-time homes and second homes. A key battle of the Revolutionary War occurred at Saratoga that is near Stillwater and involved the Hudson River. The Americans defeat of the British created the much needed momentum and convinced the French to become an ally.
Trilogy turned onto the Mohawk River that is the start of the Erie Canal and found dock space on the free canal wall in Waterford that is immediately before the first set of locks. The harbor host greeted us and would help find a grocery store, an auto parts store, a Laundromat and a hair salon. Laurie got an immediate appointment for a haircut and I started the job of changing Trilogy’s oil and filter. That project was delayed with the oil extractor pump failed. When Laurie returned, the bikes took us the nearby Hannaford’s grocery store and I continued on to the auto parts store.
Waterford is stagnant town where the infrastructure is decaying, road maintenance is badly needed and urban blight has taken hold. A hand pump was bought and then I met Laurie at the grocery store to help bring back the large provisioning supplies. With the heat and humidity high in the later afternoon, dinner was served after docktails and later the oil change project was done while Laurie did the laundry.
Trilogy would travel 37 miles and go through 6 locks in 6 hours. This is region is doted with small towns such as Fort Miller, Schuylerville, Victory, Stillwater, Mechanicville, and Waterford. Between them is farmland that was carved out of the forest. The shoreline is forested with a sprinkling of full-time homes and second homes. A key battle of the Revolutionary War occurred at Saratoga that is near Stillwater and involved the Hudson River. The Americans defeat of the British created the much needed momentum and convinced the French to become an ally.
Trilogy turned onto the Mohawk River that is the start of the Erie Canal and found dock space on the free canal wall in Waterford that is immediately before the first set of locks. The harbor host greeted us and would help find a grocery store, an auto parts store, a Laundromat and a hair salon. Laurie got an immediate appointment for a haircut and I started the job of changing Trilogy’s oil and filter. That project was delayed with the oil extractor pump failed. When Laurie returned, the bikes took us the nearby Hannaford’s grocery store and I continued on to the auto parts store.
Waterford is stagnant town where the infrastructure is decaying, road maintenance is badly needed and urban blight has taken hold. A hand pump was bought and then I met Laurie at the grocery store to help bring back the large provisioning supplies. With the heat and humidity high in the later afternoon, dinner was served after docktails and later the oil change project was done while Laurie did the laundry.
Wednesday, August 1 – day with friends.We had known Dan and Sherry since 1978 when we all worked for the National Park Service in Astoria, Oregon. Just great people with a lot in common, Dan had a rich and fulfilling career in the park service while our lives went in another direction. They live near Albany, New York and we last saw them when we passed through in 2014 while doing the Great Loop.
They met us at Trilogy and after a tour of the small spaces, we visited the nearby state park and then drove to Saratoga Springs home of the famous horse racing track and a vibrant town with an interesting downtown where we had a picnic lunch in a park. After walking downtown and having coffee, they took us to their hardware store for propane and a couple of tools. Then, we went to their house on a small lake and enjoyed the afternoon and dinner together. A great visit and time well spent.
They met us at Trilogy and after a tour of the small spaces, we visited the nearby state park and then drove to Saratoga Springs home of the famous horse racing track and a vibrant town with an interesting downtown where we had a picnic lunch in a park. After walking downtown and having coffee, they took us to their hardware store for propane and a couple of tools. Then, we went to their house on a small lake and enjoyed the afternoon and dinner together. A great visit and time well spent.
Thursday, August 2. The day started sooner than expected with the sound of diesel engines at 0730 hours. Our two neighbors from Canada, a Meridian yacht and a 50-foot classic antique wood boat had talked to the nearby lockmaster and would be going through in 10 minutes. Without breakfast or coffee, Trilogywas ready to go in 5 minutes and we got an early start on the first 5 locks that would talk a total of 90 minutes to transit.
If you do something long enough, you will experience all that can go wrong with that activity. Laurie and I have probably done over 250 locks in our boating career and probably nearly half of those while on this trip. The loop that was put around the fixed cable in the lock wall got hung up on the hardware at the cable’s bottom end. Most cable ends are contained in a steel bracket. This one was not and the clamps and bolts to secure the cable were exposed. As Trilogy rose in the lock, the loop did not slide up and soon the rope was taut and pulling the side of the boat downward. No, the boat would not capsize because the rope or a piece of hardware would fail first.
But, fast action was needed. I made a feeble attempt with the boat hook to snag the loop but the boat was leaning into the lock wall and I aborted my effort just in time to stop from being caught between the boat and wall. I got the line un-cleated before Laurie needed to cut it with the knife she had. Let go, the tug drifted in the lock chamber and the thrusters were just barely able to control her. To Laurie’s credit, she did not let go of the end of the line and soon the angle was right for the loop to get past the snag and was free. Both the jack-line and the loop line got seriously stretched but nothing broke and no one was injured.
Another observation, things go wrong at either the very start of the day or at the very end.
We had planned to do a long day and accomplished that with traveling 60 miles and transiting 13 locks in10 hours. We traveled half of the day with the same two boats until the wooden antique one stopped in Schenectady and the Meridian stopped at Lock 11. There were almost no other boats on the water in either direction. How is that possible in the highest season of the year?
Except for the first 5 locks, the rest of the locks were nearly evenly spaced out every 5 to 10 miles. These locks were in worse shape than the locks on the western portion with walls crumbling. Also, not all of these had been upgraded to have either pipes or cables. Several times, we had to grab the wet and slimy lines with gloved hands and use considerable strength to keepTrilogy under control. Finally, in several locks, the lines were nearly too short for the boats like Trilogywho do not stand tall in the water.
The majority of this day was through very rural New York and the canal was the broad and curvy Mohawk River. Either forest or farmland extended as far as the eye could see. Trilogy had been in constant motion for 8 hours until a break was taken at Lock 12. We considered staying the night until the weather service broadcasted a flash flood watch for the area beginning tomorrow afternoon. Very heavy rain was forecasted. Flash flooding could impact the operation of the locks. We opted for the strategy of trying to get out of the watch area and getting to Rome, New York tomorrow. To do that meant doing more miles today.
Trilogy did 17 more miles and another lock in 90 minutes, arriving at Canajoharie at 5:45 PM. The sky was cloudy, the air still and humid and temperatures in the high 80’s. The free town dock was appreciated though the power did not work. This is not a quiet place. I-90 is 200 yards away, the major rail line with trains running every 30 minutes is 300 yards away and the major highway bridge is overhead.
Everyone was toast. After docktails, hamburgers were grilled on the BBQ and served with cole slaw.
If you do something long enough, you will experience all that can go wrong with that activity. Laurie and I have probably done over 250 locks in our boating career and probably nearly half of those while on this trip. The loop that was put around the fixed cable in the lock wall got hung up on the hardware at the cable’s bottom end. Most cable ends are contained in a steel bracket. This one was not and the clamps and bolts to secure the cable were exposed. As Trilogy rose in the lock, the loop did not slide up and soon the rope was taut and pulling the side of the boat downward. No, the boat would not capsize because the rope or a piece of hardware would fail first.
But, fast action was needed. I made a feeble attempt with the boat hook to snag the loop but the boat was leaning into the lock wall and I aborted my effort just in time to stop from being caught between the boat and wall. I got the line un-cleated before Laurie needed to cut it with the knife she had. Let go, the tug drifted in the lock chamber and the thrusters were just barely able to control her. To Laurie’s credit, she did not let go of the end of the line and soon the angle was right for the loop to get past the snag and was free. Both the jack-line and the loop line got seriously stretched but nothing broke and no one was injured.
Another observation, things go wrong at either the very start of the day or at the very end.
We had planned to do a long day and accomplished that with traveling 60 miles and transiting 13 locks in10 hours. We traveled half of the day with the same two boats until the wooden antique one stopped in Schenectady and the Meridian stopped at Lock 11. There were almost no other boats on the water in either direction. How is that possible in the highest season of the year?
Except for the first 5 locks, the rest of the locks were nearly evenly spaced out every 5 to 10 miles. These locks were in worse shape than the locks on the western portion with walls crumbling. Also, not all of these had been upgraded to have either pipes or cables. Several times, we had to grab the wet and slimy lines with gloved hands and use considerable strength to keepTrilogy under control. Finally, in several locks, the lines were nearly too short for the boats like Trilogywho do not stand tall in the water.
The majority of this day was through very rural New York and the canal was the broad and curvy Mohawk River. Either forest or farmland extended as far as the eye could see. Trilogy had been in constant motion for 8 hours until a break was taken at Lock 12. We considered staying the night until the weather service broadcasted a flash flood watch for the area beginning tomorrow afternoon. Very heavy rain was forecasted. Flash flooding could impact the operation of the locks. We opted for the strategy of trying to get out of the watch area and getting to Rome, New York tomorrow. To do that meant doing more miles today.
Trilogy did 17 more miles and another lock in 90 minutes, arriving at Canajoharie at 5:45 PM. The sky was cloudy, the air still and humid and temperatures in the high 80’s. The free town dock was appreciated though the power did not work. This is not a quiet place. I-90 is 200 yards away, the major rail line with trains running every 30 minutes is 300 yards away and the major highway bridge is overhead.
Everyone was toast. After docktails, hamburgers were grilled on the BBQ and served with cole slaw.
Friday, August 3. The light rain started to come though the front hatch and woke us up. The rain would come and go throughout the day and the sky would remain cloudy but the temperature and the humidity would remain high. We would go through 7 locks and travel 55 miles as we traveled westbound on the Erie Canal and headed toward the Oswego Canal. A fuel stop was made at St. Johnsville, NY.
The locks are individually different based on when the lock was re-built. The latest re-builds have welded steel walls and these were not designed for the end-user; the boater who must use hanging ropes to secure their boat in the lock. The earlier re-built locks were cast concrete and these had rigid pipes or steel cables recessed into the walls. The boater could secure their craft to the pipe or cable and the lift was safer.
Lock 17 at Little Falls, New York is an unusual one because rather than doors that swing, the east gate is lifted with the help of a huge counter-balance. Entering the lock is like entering a huge cave. Little Falls was thoroughly enjoyed during the previous trip and the intention was to go to new places.
Trilogy stopped at Rome, New York and their free town dock that is part of an expansive city park. A carnival was setting up for the weekend celebration of Canalfest. This was a full community event with police officers, volunteers, and Rotarians. A marginal rock band played throughout the evening and soft serve ice cream with chocolate syrup was enjoyed after dinner. The fireworks show was spectacular and the tug’s cockpit provided a front row seat.
The locks are individually different based on when the lock was re-built. The latest re-builds have welded steel walls and these were not designed for the end-user; the boater who must use hanging ropes to secure their boat in the lock. The earlier re-built locks were cast concrete and these had rigid pipes or steel cables recessed into the walls. The boater could secure their craft to the pipe or cable and the lift was safer.
Lock 17 at Little Falls, New York is an unusual one because rather than doors that swing, the east gate is lifted with the help of a huge counter-balance. Entering the lock is like entering a huge cave. Little Falls was thoroughly enjoyed during the previous trip and the intention was to go to new places.
Trilogy stopped at Rome, New York and their free town dock that is part of an expansive city park. A carnival was setting up for the weekend celebration of Canalfest. This was a full community event with police officers, volunteers, and Rotarians. A marginal rock band played throughout the evening and soft serve ice cream with chocolate syrup was enjoyed after dinner. The fireworks show was spectacular and the tug’s cockpit provided a front row seat.
Saturday, August 4 and a chance meeting with Joe and Connie. We were awakened by the sound of kids fishing from the dock as the fishing derby had started. After breakfast, the bikes were set up and they easily took us to Fort Stanwix National Monument and arriving before the park opened at 0900 allowed us to bike the grounds. When the visitor center opened, we thoroughly enjoyed the excellent museum that was well-planned and executed with great media and displays. Then, we explored the huge fort.
This is a park that was created to tell an historical story but also was a centerpiece of urban renewal. The original fort was long gone. A replica built in 1927 was also gone. The city convinced Congress to buy an entire city block that was crowded with buildings, raze them, find the original foundations of the fort, and build a new replica. Today, Fort Stanwix is the centerpiece of Rome, New York. The story told was also compelling because it provided the whole picture from different voices that created an appreciation of the events that occurred over two hundred years.
Trilogy pulled away from the dock at 1045 hours and traveled 15 miles and through two locks to Sylvan Beach at Lake Oneida where the congestion caused by weekend boaters was higher than anything we had seen for several weeks. Trilogy did the 20 mile crossing at her fast cruising speed and topped-off the fuel tank in Brewerton where diesel was $2.99 a gallon. Going through Lock 23 was near the junction with the Oswego Canal. Turning right, Trilogy re-traced her wake and stopped at Phoenix at 4:45 PM and traveled a total 48 miles.
We last saw Joe and Connie last winter in Fort Myers, Florida. We have known them since doing a large portion of the Great Loop together in 2014. Now, they are using their fiberglass RV trailer to explore New England and they were in the area and came to Phoenix. We had a great time, with good friends, having docktails in the shade of a tree and then had dinner at a local pub. Connie took Laurie to the store for some last minute provisioning while Joe and I chatted aboard Trilogy.
This is a park that was created to tell an historical story but also was a centerpiece of urban renewal. The original fort was long gone. A replica built in 1927 was also gone. The city convinced Congress to buy an entire city block that was crowded with buildings, raze them, find the original foundations of the fort, and build a new replica. Today, Fort Stanwix is the centerpiece of Rome, New York. The story told was also compelling because it provided the whole picture from different voices that created an appreciation of the events that occurred over two hundred years.
Trilogy pulled away from the dock at 1045 hours and traveled 15 miles and through two locks to Sylvan Beach at Lake Oneida where the congestion caused by weekend boaters was higher than anything we had seen for several weeks. Trilogy did the 20 mile crossing at her fast cruising speed and topped-off the fuel tank in Brewerton where diesel was $2.99 a gallon. Going through Lock 23 was near the junction with the Oswego Canal. Turning right, Trilogy re-traced her wake and stopped at Phoenix at 4:45 PM and traveled a total 48 miles.
We last saw Joe and Connie last winter in Fort Myers, Florida. We have known them since doing a large portion of the Great Loop together in 2014. Now, they are using their fiberglass RV trailer to explore New England and they were in the area and came to Phoenix. We had a great time, with good friends, having docktails in the shade of a tree and then had dinner at a local pub. Connie took Laurie to the store for some last minute provisioning while Joe and I chatted aboard Trilogy.
THE THOUSAND ISLANDS AND THE TRENT SEVEREN WATERWAY, ONTARIO
Sunday, August 5 and the start of the Thousand Islands. The morning air was calm, the water was still and the dew was heavy. The weather forecast was for hot weather and the forecasters would be right. Lock 1 is near the Phoenix town wall and Trilogywas in the lock at 0825 hours, a repeat of three weeks before. Over the next four hours, Trilogy would travel 24 miles and transit 7 locks. We met a grumpy lockmaster who did not communicate on any level; radio or face to face. Maybe he was called in to work on his day off and was thoroughly grumpy about it. Though we had traveled this route two other times, it was new in the sense of different lighting, time of day and with new sounds and textures.
The idea was to get to Oswego and then make a destination decision that was based on the weather, lake conditions, our level of endurance and desires. We also had to meet up with Joe and Connie to retrieve a Yeti beverage cooler that is used frequently and was accidently left with them. After enjoying Joe and Connie, the decision was made to explore the U.S. side of the Thousand Islands at the possible expense of missing some or all of the Tug Rendezvous in Orillia. We had been to Orillia and to several rendezvouses and had not seen these islands.
We headed to Henderson Bay to anchor out. Lake Ontario had 1-foot waves from the southwest and these would grow as the east end of the lake came closer. Trilogy traveled most of the 30 miles at her fast cruising speed of 15 MPH. At Stony Island, Laurie found the weather forecast had changed for the next two days with strong winds from the south. Henderson Bay was too far from the core of the islands and fearing that Trilogy could be stuck for two days, the destination was changed to Cape Vincent, a small town of 2,000 in New York that was on the mainland and close to the popular places.
We knew that this would turn into an unplanned long day of 75 tough miles with 7 locks, an active lake crossing and then zigzagging to quarter through the waves that hit Trilogy’s beam. Cape Vincent has a free town dock and we arrived at 5:30 PM. 8 boats from Quebec had nearly taken the dock over but they would be good neighbors. At the head of the dock was a space big enough for Trilogyand had a depth of 2 feet that kept the big cruisers rafted to each other.
We were hot, tired and not feeling sociable. After docktails, steaks and zucchini were grilled on the BBQ. Then, we found the only business open on this quaint main street, an ice cream store that had a dozen people in line. We had never waited 30 minutes for ice cream before but the ice cream was worth it. The evening was closed with showers and reading.
Sunday, August 5 and the start of the Thousand Islands. The morning air was calm, the water was still and the dew was heavy. The weather forecast was for hot weather and the forecasters would be right. Lock 1 is near the Phoenix town wall and Trilogywas in the lock at 0825 hours, a repeat of three weeks before. Over the next four hours, Trilogy would travel 24 miles and transit 7 locks. We met a grumpy lockmaster who did not communicate on any level; radio or face to face. Maybe he was called in to work on his day off and was thoroughly grumpy about it. Though we had traveled this route two other times, it was new in the sense of different lighting, time of day and with new sounds and textures.
The idea was to get to Oswego and then make a destination decision that was based on the weather, lake conditions, our level of endurance and desires. We also had to meet up with Joe and Connie to retrieve a Yeti beverage cooler that is used frequently and was accidently left with them. After enjoying Joe and Connie, the decision was made to explore the U.S. side of the Thousand Islands at the possible expense of missing some or all of the Tug Rendezvous in Orillia. We had been to Orillia and to several rendezvouses and had not seen these islands.
We headed to Henderson Bay to anchor out. Lake Ontario had 1-foot waves from the southwest and these would grow as the east end of the lake came closer. Trilogy traveled most of the 30 miles at her fast cruising speed of 15 MPH. At Stony Island, Laurie found the weather forecast had changed for the next two days with strong winds from the south. Henderson Bay was too far from the core of the islands and fearing that Trilogy could be stuck for two days, the destination was changed to Cape Vincent, a small town of 2,000 in New York that was on the mainland and close to the popular places.
We knew that this would turn into an unplanned long day of 75 tough miles with 7 locks, an active lake crossing and then zigzagging to quarter through the waves that hit Trilogy’s beam. Cape Vincent has a free town dock and we arrived at 5:30 PM. 8 boats from Quebec had nearly taken the dock over but they would be good neighbors. At the head of the dock was a space big enough for Trilogyand had a depth of 2 feet that kept the big cruisers rafted to each other.
We were hot, tired and not feeling sociable. After docktails, steaks and zucchini were grilled on the BBQ. Then, we found the only business open on this quaint main street, an ice cream store that had a dozen people in line. We had never waited 30 minutes for ice cream before but the ice cream was worth it. The evening was closed with showers and reading.
Monday, August 6 and Clayton, New York. A short walk of the neighborhood was enjoyed after breakfast. The fresh breeze from the southwest had already created white caps on the St. Lawrence River when Trilogy left the dock at 0930 hours. The breeze and the current pushed us eastward along the international border. The tug stayed slow and found the sweet spot of a comfortable ride in the following sea while using the depth contours on the chart to stay at a safe depth while enjoying the houses on the shore. 15 miles and two hours later, we rounded Bartlett Point, crossed the bay and tied up at the Clayton Town Dock. Clayton is the economic and community center of the Thousand Islands on the American side.
Within an hour, the dock was full with boats from Quebec that were traveling together. The dock offers little protection from swells from the bay but the ride was better at sundown. After lunch, the afternoon was spent at the Antique Boat Museum and walking the compact downtown. The boat museum is the centerpiece of Clayton and does an excellent job of memorializing the history of the islands in the context of wooden boats. We walked the small downtown and toured the shops.
The afternoon was hot and sultry. The tug’s air conditioner worked all day and all night. Dinner was Lasagna and served with can fruit. Long conversations were held on the phone with Karen and the inspection of the house she is buying.
Within an hour, the dock was full with boats from Quebec that were traveling together. The dock offers little protection from swells from the bay but the ride was better at sundown. After lunch, the afternoon was spent at the Antique Boat Museum and walking the compact downtown. The boat museum is the centerpiece of Clayton and does an excellent job of memorializing the history of the islands in the context of wooden boats. We walked the small downtown and toured the shops.
The afternoon was hot and sultry. The tug’s air conditioner worked all day and all night. Dinner was Lasagna and served with can fruit. Long conversations were held on the phone with Karen and the inspection of the house she is buying.
Tuesday, August 7, Boldt Castle and anchoring.I did not hear the weather alert on my phone at 0500 hours that a severe thunderstorm was approaching but the lightning and thunder was a good alert. The rain pounded the tug and the wind squall kicked up the bay so much that swells rocked Trilogy for several minutes. In about 45 minutes, it was gone. The clouds would remain low until mid-morning and the southwest breeze would be constant, yet the humidity would remain high and the temperature would be in the low 80’s.
Trilogy left Clayton at 0830 hours and with the wind at her back and riding the one-knot current, passed hundreds of small islands that had many, many structures on them. The Thousand Islands had been developed and populated during the summer time for over 100 years. Then, the St. Lawrence Seaway routinely froze, now the winters are bitter cold but the river does not freeze.
Continuing through the American Narrows and under the massive highway bridge that resembled the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, we traveled 12 miles and stopped for fuel at Alexandria Bay because there are items that boaters try not to buy in Canada: fuel and alcohol. There were three operations selling diesel. The high priced one was passed, the one selling Valvtect fuel was rejected (remember Buffalo?), and we settled on paying $3.48 a gallon.
After fuel, the channel was crossed to Heart Island, docked at the small boat dock to tour the Boldt Castle that was open for business. This massive castle is a huge tourist draw and is a significant contributor to the area’s economy. The story is more about a government agency, The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority, getting a horribly rundown property and building and doing an incredible job of restoration. The story of hotel baron George Boldt acquiring the island and paying hundreds of workers to build the castle as a tribute to his love for his wife who died before it was finished and then walked away from the project is dwarfed by the accomplishment of today’s craftsman and the vision of the agency’s leadership.
We had lunch on the dock as the island quickly filled with tourists coming on a wave of sightseeing boats and many private boats. For the remainder of the afternoon, the number of boats in this part of the Thousand Islands was very high. Trilogy went around the eastern tip of Wellesley Island and headed southwest on the Canadian Middle Canal. Rockport was supposed to have a customs dock to check in but could not be found. Snaking through the Navy Islands at 8 MPH, at least a hundred homes were enjoyed.
Trilogy made landfall in Canada at Gananoque Municipal Marina and a call was made to Canadian Customs. A cellular phone works just as good as a pay phone. The nearby Admiralty Islands were explored and three options were assessed for docking or anchoring. All of the Parks Canada docks were full. A wonderful anchorage was found between Lindsay and Beaurivage Islands in 4 feet of water. We dipped and swam in the warm water, cleaned the grime off of the hull and enjoyed the coolness on the early evening. Trilogy had traveled 33 miles.
Trilogy left Clayton at 0830 hours and with the wind at her back and riding the one-knot current, passed hundreds of small islands that had many, many structures on them. The Thousand Islands had been developed and populated during the summer time for over 100 years. Then, the St. Lawrence Seaway routinely froze, now the winters are bitter cold but the river does not freeze.
Continuing through the American Narrows and under the massive highway bridge that resembled the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, we traveled 12 miles and stopped for fuel at Alexandria Bay because there are items that boaters try not to buy in Canada: fuel and alcohol. There were three operations selling diesel. The high priced one was passed, the one selling Valvtect fuel was rejected (remember Buffalo?), and we settled on paying $3.48 a gallon.
After fuel, the channel was crossed to Heart Island, docked at the small boat dock to tour the Boldt Castle that was open for business. This massive castle is a huge tourist draw and is a significant contributor to the area’s economy. The story is more about a government agency, The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority, getting a horribly rundown property and building and doing an incredible job of restoration. The story of hotel baron George Boldt acquiring the island and paying hundreds of workers to build the castle as a tribute to his love for his wife who died before it was finished and then walked away from the project is dwarfed by the accomplishment of today’s craftsman and the vision of the agency’s leadership.
We had lunch on the dock as the island quickly filled with tourists coming on a wave of sightseeing boats and many private boats. For the remainder of the afternoon, the number of boats in this part of the Thousand Islands was very high. Trilogy went around the eastern tip of Wellesley Island and headed southwest on the Canadian Middle Canal. Rockport was supposed to have a customs dock to check in but could not be found. Snaking through the Navy Islands at 8 MPH, at least a hundred homes were enjoyed.
Trilogy made landfall in Canada at Gananoque Municipal Marina and a call was made to Canadian Customs. A cellular phone works just as good as a pay phone. The nearby Admiralty Islands were explored and three options were assessed for docking or anchoring. All of the Parks Canada docks were full. A wonderful anchorage was found between Lindsay and Beaurivage Islands in 4 feet of water. We dipped and swam in the warm water, cleaned the grime off of the hull and enjoyed the coolness on the early evening. Trilogy had traveled 33 miles.
Wednesday, August 8 and the end of the Thousand Islands. The anchor was pulled at 0800 hours and Trilogy headed west bound on Bateau Channel after snaking among the small islands. Heading down the main channel with the Canadian mainland on the starboard side, Kingston was passed at 0945 hours and this is where we started the Rideau Canal weeks before.
The North Channel is between Amherst Island and the mainland. The 12-mile long island provides protection from the battering waves from Lake Ontario. Laurie presented the history of the island and the controversy about the growing number of wind turbines.
Then, the tug followed the Z-shaped channel past Picton and Deseronto and headed right into a cell of heavy rain. Visibility dropped to less than an 1/8 of a mile. The weather radar showed the cell was a dark orange and was barely moving in the still air. The radar and the chartplotter provided the guidance and the autopilot kept the course. Two sailboats were seen; one was lost and kept circling a navigation buoy and the radio traffic between them was they were going to wait for the rain to let up.
At Belleville, the rain had stopped. A short distance is the community of Trenton and the Trent Port Marina was only partly cloudy. Trilogy arrived at 4:45 PM having travelled 87 miles. The marina that we stayed at four years ago was gone and the newer one was very nice with free laundry, outstanding bathrooms and the grocery store was very close. Throughout the evening, we met a number of boaters and shared our story.
The North Channel is between Amherst Island and the mainland. The 12-mile long island provides protection from the battering waves from Lake Ontario. Laurie presented the history of the island and the controversy about the growing number of wind turbines.
Then, the tug followed the Z-shaped channel past Picton and Deseronto and headed right into a cell of heavy rain. Visibility dropped to less than an 1/8 of a mile. The weather radar showed the cell was a dark orange and was barely moving in the still air. The radar and the chartplotter provided the guidance and the autopilot kept the course. Two sailboats were seen; one was lost and kept circling a navigation buoy and the radio traffic between them was they were going to wait for the rain to let up.
At Belleville, the rain had stopped. A short distance is the community of Trenton and the Trent Port Marina was only partly cloudy. Trilogy arrived at 4:45 PM having travelled 87 miles. The marina that we stayed at four years ago was gone and the newer one was very nice with free laundry, outstanding bathrooms and the grocery store was very close. Throughout the evening, we met a number of boaters and shared our story.
Thursday, August 9, the start of the Trent-Severn Waterway and Campbellford. The morning skies were partly cloudy and the temperature was cool being in the mid-70’s. After a breakfast of scrambled eggs, the water tank was topped off and we pulled away from the slip at 0830 hours to get to Lock 1 when operations started at 0900 hours. The Parks Canada staff did not answer the radio or be visible until 0900 hours and Trilogywas the only boat in the lock; a pattern that would last all day and through 12 locks.
By the end of the day in Campbellford, the trip would be more than the numbers; 8 hours and only 31 miles. The Trent-Severn Waterway is set of connections between lakes and rivers that uses a few cut canals with 44 locks and dams to solve the problem of elevation changes between Lake Huron, the topography and Lake Ontario. On the first day, Trilogyhad done nearly a third of the locks because they were built in clusters. Also, the speed of travel between the locks is set by a speed limit of 6.2 miles per hour.
Once again, the Parks Canada staff is impressive with their genuine friendliness. They said that locking through 10 boats a day is common for August. These locks are not near “cottage country” and the boaters are often like us, just passing through. For the first three hours, we saw only three other boats on the water. Two Ranger Tugs were seen, Sine Waveis a near clone of Trilogy in model an color. Riverdancewas seen in Campbellford and is a red 25SC that is also enroute to the tug rendezvous in Orillia.
When you do as many locks as Trilogy has, there is a system that begins with double fenders at the bow and stern. One fender is a ball fender and the other is a cylinder. The ball fender is the primary defense against the lock wall. The cylinder fender hangs lower and is a back-up support to the ball fender. In the lock, wind and the surged caused by the filling water can be a powerful force.
Leaving the marina and the short industrial area, the land was rolling hills with modest cottages or RV’s that were scattered on the shoreline. In the distance were dairy farms and fields of corn. Sometimes, the river was very broad, marshy, and shallow. The depth was typically 5 to 8 feet and sometimes reached the mid-teens.
In Campbellford, Trilogy tied to the town wall on the east side because the west wall was nearly full and within the hour, the east wall was nearly full of boats. After docktails on the tug, a great dinner was enjoyed at Capers Tap House. On the way back to the river, a thunderstorm came through the region with gusting wind, lightning and 10 minutes of heavy rain. The skies were nearly clear as the sunset developed.
By the end of the day in Campbellford, the trip would be more than the numbers; 8 hours and only 31 miles. The Trent-Severn Waterway is set of connections between lakes and rivers that uses a few cut canals with 44 locks and dams to solve the problem of elevation changes between Lake Huron, the topography and Lake Ontario. On the first day, Trilogyhad done nearly a third of the locks because they were built in clusters. Also, the speed of travel between the locks is set by a speed limit of 6.2 miles per hour.
Once again, the Parks Canada staff is impressive with their genuine friendliness. They said that locking through 10 boats a day is common for August. These locks are not near “cottage country” and the boaters are often like us, just passing through. For the first three hours, we saw only three other boats on the water. Two Ranger Tugs were seen, Sine Waveis a near clone of Trilogy in model an color. Riverdancewas seen in Campbellford and is a red 25SC that is also enroute to the tug rendezvous in Orillia.
When you do as many locks as Trilogy has, there is a system that begins with double fenders at the bow and stern. One fender is a ball fender and the other is a cylinder. The ball fender is the primary defense against the lock wall. The cylinder fender hangs lower and is a back-up support to the ball fender. In the lock, wind and the surged caused by the filling water can be a powerful force.
Leaving the marina and the short industrial area, the land was rolling hills with modest cottages or RV’s that were scattered on the shoreline. In the distance were dairy farms and fields of corn. Sometimes, the river was very broad, marshy, and shallow. The depth was typically 5 to 8 feet and sometimes reached the mid-teens.
In Campbellford, Trilogy tied to the town wall on the east side because the west wall was nearly full and within the hour, the east wall was nearly full of boats. After docktails on the tug, a great dinner was enjoyed at Capers Tap House. On the way back to the river, a thunderstorm came through the region with gusting wind, lightning and 10 minutes of heavy rain. The skies were nearly clear as the sunset developed.
Friday, August 10 and Peterborough, ON. Laurie was up and at Doohers Bakery at 0730 hours for fresh butter tarts, blueberry pie and bear claws. Reading from the Andiamo journal, we knew that the being at the lock early would likely lead to being locked with the first group. Trilogyleft the town wall at 0800 hours and would three other boats would follow the lead and join us at the lock wall awaiting the start of lock operations at 0900 hours. One of the boats was Riverdance and we met Neal and Caty and their grandson Zander.
A 41-foot trawler and 36 foot “another piece-of-shift-Sea Ray” (because of the huge wakes these create) joined us on the lock wall. We would spend the better part of the day going through 6 locks together and judgments come easy from their behavior. The shirtless captain of the trawler was impatient with the lockmaster and would speed through the no wake zones. The POS Sea Ray captain and crew was buddy boating with the trawler and had little confidence in their abilities.
The locks lifted Trilogy into cottage country and small neighborhoods of modest second homes with docks. Most were not occupied on this Friday. This part of the waterway is a river that can be narrow but also widens into small lakes. The navigation buoys of red and green can be far a part, like on Rice Lake, and can be tightly grouped to keep boaters away from rocks. The neighborhoods of cottages were often marked with speed limit signs of 10 km/hr or 6.2 MPH. Trilogy would often slow for canoes, swimmers, or when the density of docks was high.
At the Hastings Lock, Riverdance stopped for the night. Laurie had identified three possible anchorages if we decided not to proceed to Peterborough. The cruising conditions were great with flat water, little wind, and few boats. 15 miles of Rice Lake was done at 15 MPH because it was easy. The Otonabee River is the 20-mile link between Rice Lake and Peterborough. Trilogy did the river in 90 minutes and arrived at the Peterborough Marina at 5:30 PM having traveled 58 miles and transiting 6 locks.
A 41-foot trawler and 36 foot “another piece-of-shift-Sea Ray” (because of the huge wakes these create) joined us on the lock wall. We would spend the better part of the day going through 6 locks together and judgments come easy from their behavior. The shirtless captain of the trawler was impatient with the lockmaster and would speed through the no wake zones. The POS Sea Ray captain and crew was buddy boating with the trawler and had little confidence in their abilities.
The locks lifted Trilogy into cottage country and small neighborhoods of modest second homes with docks. Most were not occupied on this Friday. This part of the waterway is a river that can be narrow but also widens into small lakes. The navigation buoys of red and green can be far a part, like on Rice Lake, and can be tightly grouped to keep boaters away from rocks. The neighborhoods of cottages were often marked with speed limit signs of 10 km/hr or 6.2 MPH. Trilogy would often slow for canoes, swimmers, or when the density of docks was high.
At the Hastings Lock, Riverdance stopped for the night. Laurie had identified three possible anchorages if we decided not to proceed to Peterborough. The cruising conditions were great with flat water, little wind, and few boats. 15 miles of Rice Lake was done at 15 MPH because it was easy. The Otonabee River is the 20-mile link between Rice Lake and Peterborough. Trilogy did the river in 90 minutes and arrived at the Peterborough Marina at 5:30 PM having traveled 58 miles and transiting 6 locks.
Saturday, August 11 in Peterborough, ON. This was a day to lay low, chat, and work on boat projects under the sunny skies with temperatures in the low 80’s. The finish on the teak interior needed maintenance and the oil finish done at the factory was enhanced with a wipe-on satin polyurethane. Two coats were applied to the largest area of teak and the results were rewarding. Laurie defrosted the freezer and it was amazing how much ice came out.
The bikes took us to the grocery story, the beer store for local craft brew and the hardware store for clear silicone. The afternoon project was cleaning and prepping the edge of the wood panel that is inlaid into the fiberglass floor and then caulking the gap between the wood and the fiberglass. The gap is preventable and collects dirt, hair and kitty litter.
Trilogy was docked against a sidewalk the fronted a concert venue and the pedestrian traffic was constant. Laurie answered the compliments and questions from many people. An afternoon break was good hard ice cream at the marina office and quick chat with Neal and Caty who had arrived in Riverdance this morning. Brian and Carol are the boaters we met at Jones Falls and their McGregor sailboat was at Peterborough. We met for appetizers and enjoyed Brian’s stories.
Tonight would be a concert by a tribute band to rocker Bob Seger. They did a sound check in the early afternoon and we had a perfect location to hear them. The park was nearly full at 8PM with probably 3,000 people and the band played to nearly 10PM. The crowd was great and music was a gift. After the concert, the underside of humanity showed itself when large group of older teens were yelling about a fight that was happening in the group. When that group moved on, several homeless adults were around Trilogy and one of them climbed onto the toe rail. I was up and responded to this and they moved on.
The bikes took us to the grocery story, the beer store for local craft brew and the hardware store for clear silicone. The afternoon project was cleaning and prepping the edge of the wood panel that is inlaid into the fiberglass floor and then caulking the gap between the wood and the fiberglass. The gap is preventable and collects dirt, hair and kitty litter.
Trilogy was docked against a sidewalk the fronted a concert venue and the pedestrian traffic was constant. Laurie answered the compliments and questions from many people. An afternoon break was good hard ice cream at the marina office and quick chat with Neal and Caty who had arrived in Riverdance this morning. Brian and Carol are the boaters we met at Jones Falls and their McGregor sailboat was at Peterborough. We met for appetizers and enjoyed Brian’s stories.
Tonight would be a concert by a tribute band to rocker Bob Seger. They did a sound check in the early afternoon and we had a perfect location to hear them. The park was nearly full at 8PM with probably 3,000 people and the band played to nearly 10PM. The crowd was great and music was a gift. After the concert, the underside of humanity showed itself when large group of older teens were yelling about a fight that was happening in the group. When that group moved on, several homeless adults were around Trilogy and one of them climbed onto the toe rail. I was up and responded to this and they moved on.
Sunday, August 12.. The morning was cloudless and pleasant at Trilogy left the marina at 0830 to wait at the blue line at Lock 20 that was only a few minutes away. Lock operations did not start on time because water levels had to be adjusted. Eventually, 4 boats including Neal and Caty’s Riverdance were locked through and this group would spend all morning going through 5 locks together.
Five locks means there is time to visit. A local boater from Stony Lake described the many months of winter as simply, “white and cold.” The highlight was riding the Peterborough Lift Lock. Visualize a 65-foot vertical wall with two huge steel pans, like huge bathtubs, that can take at least 6 boats. The steel pans are next to each other and a huge piston is under each one. One pan is up and the other is down. Without the use of complicated pumps, the pans move up or down when water is added to the pan at the top. The 65-foot ride happens very smoothly, happens in about 90 seconds and without a sound. There are 7 lift locks in the world and two of them are on the Trent Severn Waterway.
After the lift lock, the canal goes through Trent University, a plumber’s butt-ugly set of concrete building built in the 1970’s and is horribly un-inspiring. About every 30 to 60 minutes, another lock was entered and transited. There were almost no cottages on the shoreline. Most of the boats were personal watercraft or jet skis, which we called gnats. Kayaks and canoes are called mosquitos. In one lake, three very small radio controlled boats were screaming around and these were dubbed no-see-ums.
Entering a the Kawartha Lakes, the water was incredibly clear and revealed the rocky bottom of pieces of slabs of granite that would easily eat a propeller and make it tricky to secure an anchor. After Lock 27 at Young’s Point suddenly came more boats and our first rental houseboat. Then came the Devil’s Elbow and a very narrow channel with rocks on each side with quick turns that is well marked with green and red markers.
The destination was Lock 30 on Lovesick Island because a local boater at a lock told us how beautiful, peaceful and quiet it was. Trilogy arrived at 4PM after traveling 27 miles and handling 10 locks. We stayed above the lock and except from some pesky flies that the rangers said were new, the place was perfect. The evening was closed with a movie on the laptop.
Five locks means there is time to visit. A local boater from Stony Lake described the many months of winter as simply, “white and cold.” The highlight was riding the Peterborough Lift Lock. Visualize a 65-foot vertical wall with two huge steel pans, like huge bathtubs, that can take at least 6 boats. The steel pans are next to each other and a huge piston is under each one. One pan is up and the other is down. Without the use of complicated pumps, the pans move up or down when water is added to the pan at the top. The 65-foot ride happens very smoothly, happens in about 90 seconds and without a sound. There are 7 lift locks in the world and two of them are on the Trent Severn Waterway.
After the lift lock, the canal goes through Trent University, a plumber’s butt-ugly set of concrete building built in the 1970’s and is horribly un-inspiring. About every 30 to 60 minutes, another lock was entered and transited. There were almost no cottages on the shoreline. Most of the boats were personal watercraft or jet skis, which we called gnats. Kayaks and canoes are called mosquitos. In one lake, three very small radio controlled boats were screaming around and these were dubbed no-see-ums.
Entering a the Kawartha Lakes, the water was incredibly clear and revealed the rocky bottom of pieces of slabs of granite that would easily eat a propeller and make it tricky to secure an anchor. After Lock 27 at Young’s Point suddenly came more boats and our first rental houseboat. Then came the Devil’s Elbow and a very narrow channel with rocks on each side with quick turns that is well marked with green and red markers.
The destination was Lock 30 on Lovesick Island because a local boater at a lock told us how beautiful, peaceful and quiet it was. Trilogy arrived at 4PM after traveling 27 miles and handling 10 locks. We stayed above the lock and except from some pesky flies that the rangers said were new, the place was perfect. The evening was closed with a movie on the laptop.
Monday, August 13 and going to Bobcaygeon, Ontario. The start of the morning was quiet and peaceful with no one on the island and a clear sky with comfortable temperatures. Oatmeal was served after taking down the window canvas and using the mild dew to wipe most of the cabin down. Knowing that this would be a short travel day, a walk was enjoyed across the low dam, past the canoe portage and to the old dam where locals had built a small wading pond.
Trilogy pulled away from the lock wall at 0915 hours as the park staff arrived by boat to start their day. Lower Buckhorn Lake was mirror smooth and the red and green buoys marked the rocks to avoid. The Kawartha Lakes are dotted with small islets in all of the lakes. The next lock was Buckhorn Lock that separates the Lower Buckhorn Lake from Buckhorn Lake. As we did the tight left turn, the lock doors were revealed and the doors had just started to open. At 1010 hours, the Buckhorn Lock was entered and the short lift was done quickly. Buckhorn Lock is in the center of the small community of Buckhorn and is a busy place with cars and rented houseboats. After the moderately sized marina, the lake was void of cottages. After two sets of narrow channels, Trilogy entered Pigeon Lake and the water conditions were simply ideal.
By noon, Trilogy had found a space on the lock wall in the small town Bobcaygeon, Ontario. The name comes from a first nations word for water between two rocks. The tug had traveled 23 miles in 2.5 hours. During the afternoon, the bikes took us to a marine store to get snaps for the door mesh cover project and the best ice cream at the Kawartha Dairy. The sales person at the marine store took pity on me for the 1 1/2-mile ride that include a long hill and did not charge me for the four snaps. Laurie bought shoes at the biggest shoe store in Ontario, and minor boat projects were done. Dinner was hot dogs on the grill and served with a salad.
Trilogy pulled away from the lock wall at 0915 hours as the park staff arrived by boat to start their day. Lower Buckhorn Lake was mirror smooth and the red and green buoys marked the rocks to avoid. The Kawartha Lakes are dotted with small islets in all of the lakes. The next lock was Buckhorn Lock that separates the Lower Buckhorn Lake from Buckhorn Lake. As we did the tight left turn, the lock doors were revealed and the doors had just started to open. At 1010 hours, the Buckhorn Lock was entered and the short lift was done quickly. Buckhorn Lock is in the center of the small community of Buckhorn and is a busy place with cars and rented houseboats. After the moderately sized marina, the lake was void of cottages. After two sets of narrow channels, Trilogy entered Pigeon Lake and the water conditions were simply ideal.
By noon, Trilogy had found a space on the lock wall in the small town Bobcaygeon, Ontario. The name comes from a first nations word for water between two rocks. The tug had traveled 23 miles in 2.5 hours. During the afternoon, the bikes took us to a marine store to get snaps for the door mesh cover project and the best ice cream at the Kawartha Dairy. The sales person at the marine store took pity on me for the 1 1/2-mile ride that include a long hill and did not charge me for the four snaps. Laurie bought shoes at the biggest shoe store in Ontario, and minor boat projects were done. Dinner was hot dogs on the grill and served with a salad.
Tuesday-Wednesday-Thursday, August 14-15-16 and going to Orillia for the Ranger Tug Rendezvous. The lock at Bobcaygeon is lock 32 and includes a one-lane swing bridge that must be opened for boats over 10 feet high. We went through at 0900 hours with two other boats. The lock wall above the lock would be a good location to stop and is quieter than the wall Trilogystayed on but does not have power. Trilogy entered Sturgeon Lake that is V-shaped and stayed close to the southern shore for the smooth trip over water that was only slightly rippled.
At the top of the V-shape lake, the narrow channel took us past modest cottages until the channel stopped at the Fenelon Falls lock. We stopped above the lock to enjoy another dish of Kawartha Diary ice cream and the sugar hit would postpone lunch for another hour. Laurie bought a T-shirt at the new clothing business that had the smart idea to be harbor host with AGLCA. This is cottage country and houseboat rental cruising grounds. The wall above the lock had power and water and many boats were taking advantage of the service.
After a short walk in the small downtown, Trilogy continued on to Rosedale Lock where Riverdancewas found above the lock. We had traveled 22 miles in two hours of motoring. I spent the afternoon refinishing the interior teak at the captain’s and navigator’s station. We had docktails with Neal and Caty. This was our 10th night on the Canadian canal system and the night’s moorage was converted into an annual pass so any other nights are free.
The next day, Wednesday, August 15, was another nice morning with partly cloudy skies and a fresh breeze coming from the west. The wind on Lake Simcoe was being watched because the fourth largest lake in Ontario is immediately before Orillia and the wind can turn the water into a real challenge for boaters. The forecast was for 13 MPH winds and this would create white caps and likely substantial waves on the eastern shore.
Riverdance pulled away at 0730 hours as they intended to cross Lake Simcoe and go Lefroy where the Ranger Tug dealer was. Trilogy pulled away at 0845 hours and after the short channel, entered Balsam Lake where a fast cruise was done to maintain the turbo on the diesel engine. At the end of the lake starts a 6- mile long canal with a slow speed of 6 MPH. The canal is arrow straight in sections, narrow with trees leaning into the canal and shallow with rocks easily seen on the sides.
At 1025 hours, Trilogy entered the second lift lock on the Trent Severn Water at Kirkfield. This is the first lock where the tug will drop because this is the highest elevation on the waterway at 840 feet above sea level. As the lock is approached, there is nothing beyond it but space and horizon. Trilogy was the only boat in the huge pan and the decent into the forest was quiet and smooth. After the lock, the canal continued being narrow and shallow.
Because much of the water shallow portions of the waterway are choked with weeds, the depth sounder can give an artificially low reading. When the depth was less than 2 feet, switching to sonar mode on the chartplotter created a bigger picture and the depth was 5 to 6 feet. The narrow canal ends, the waterway opens up into Canal Lake and this is divided into two parts that is spanned by the Hole In The Wall Bridge that was built in 1905. After Canal Lake, the river is lined on both sides by cottages and several small marinas. Two low spring bridges were opened for us.
At 1050 hours, Lock 37 dropped us closer to the level of Lake Simcoe. At 1220 hours, Lock 38 did the same. The waterway became a straight ditch that was cut through rural farmland with no roads or buildings in sight. The destination was the lock wall below the Portage Lock or lock 39. Trilogy arrived at 1300 hours having traveled 22 miles.
With the stern facing west, the fresh breeze that was kicking up Lake Simcoe was cooling us off while I did more wood refinishing. A read of the 2014 journal showed we were at the same place on nearly the exact same day.
The following day, Thursday, August 16, the air temperature was 72 with 76% humidity and the air still and hazy. Sailflow showed the wind at the Lake Simcoe buoy was 7 MPH. Coffee was enjoyed in the cockpit and Millie was exploring the shoreline on the lock wall. The Parks Canada employees arrived about 0845 and the lockmaster came to us and said the next lock, Lock 41, would be ready for us. The lines were dropped, the tug turned around and we idled the ¼ mile, through the farm field to the waiting lock. 25 minutes later, Trilogy was entering Lake Simcoe whose reputation of being fierce in moderate winds is respected.
The memory of a very challenging crossing four years ago came flooding back with 3 to 5 foot waves and a rogue wave that hit us hard on the beam. Not today. The fourth largest lake in Ontario, 16 miles long and 19 miles long, was lake smooth merely rippled. For the second time on this trip, the auto-navigation feature was used and the Garmin chartplotter and autopilot took Trilogy to the entrance buoy in 45 minutes while the tug slid along at 16 miles per hour.
Past the marinas, fuel docks and under the highway bridge where the channel is quite narrow, Lake Couchching was entered. The mass of red and green markers kept us out of the shallows and we had the turn and went across the broad lake to the new Port of Orillia Marina where we backed in and docked next to Jim and Lisa’s Kismet. Over the last 10 years, we have accidently met Jim and Lisa in Alabama, Florida, Everett, Des Moines, WA and the Broughton Islands.
The highlight was meeting Ken and Pauline who had sold their boat and came with their new motorhome. We had lunch with them and their friends Mark and Jody. We visited throughout the afternoon and had dinner with Ken and Pauline.
At the top of the V-shape lake, the narrow channel took us past modest cottages until the channel stopped at the Fenelon Falls lock. We stopped above the lock to enjoy another dish of Kawartha Diary ice cream and the sugar hit would postpone lunch for another hour. Laurie bought a T-shirt at the new clothing business that had the smart idea to be harbor host with AGLCA. This is cottage country and houseboat rental cruising grounds. The wall above the lock had power and water and many boats were taking advantage of the service.
After a short walk in the small downtown, Trilogy continued on to Rosedale Lock where Riverdancewas found above the lock. We had traveled 22 miles in two hours of motoring. I spent the afternoon refinishing the interior teak at the captain’s and navigator’s station. We had docktails with Neal and Caty. This was our 10th night on the Canadian canal system and the night’s moorage was converted into an annual pass so any other nights are free.
The next day, Wednesday, August 15, was another nice morning with partly cloudy skies and a fresh breeze coming from the west. The wind on Lake Simcoe was being watched because the fourth largest lake in Ontario is immediately before Orillia and the wind can turn the water into a real challenge for boaters. The forecast was for 13 MPH winds and this would create white caps and likely substantial waves on the eastern shore.
Riverdance pulled away at 0730 hours as they intended to cross Lake Simcoe and go Lefroy where the Ranger Tug dealer was. Trilogy pulled away at 0845 hours and after the short channel, entered Balsam Lake where a fast cruise was done to maintain the turbo on the diesel engine. At the end of the lake starts a 6- mile long canal with a slow speed of 6 MPH. The canal is arrow straight in sections, narrow with trees leaning into the canal and shallow with rocks easily seen on the sides.
At 1025 hours, Trilogy entered the second lift lock on the Trent Severn Water at Kirkfield. This is the first lock where the tug will drop because this is the highest elevation on the waterway at 840 feet above sea level. As the lock is approached, there is nothing beyond it but space and horizon. Trilogy was the only boat in the huge pan and the decent into the forest was quiet and smooth. After the lock, the canal continued being narrow and shallow.
Because much of the water shallow portions of the waterway are choked with weeds, the depth sounder can give an artificially low reading. When the depth was less than 2 feet, switching to sonar mode on the chartplotter created a bigger picture and the depth was 5 to 6 feet. The narrow canal ends, the waterway opens up into Canal Lake and this is divided into two parts that is spanned by the Hole In The Wall Bridge that was built in 1905. After Canal Lake, the river is lined on both sides by cottages and several small marinas. Two low spring bridges were opened for us.
At 1050 hours, Lock 37 dropped us closer to the level of Lake Simcoe. At 1220 hours, Lock 38 did the same. The waterway became a straight ditch that was cut through rural farmland with no roads or buildings in sight. The destination was the lock wall below the Portage Lock or lock 39. Trilogy arrived at 1300 hours having traveled 22 miles.
With the stern facing west, the fresh breeze that was kicking up Lake Simcoe was cooling us off while I did more wood refinishing. A read of the 2014 journal showed we were at the same place on nearly the exact same day.
The following day, Thursday, August 16, the air temperature was 72 with 76% humidity and the air still and hazy. Sailflow showed the wind at the Lake Simcoe buoy was 7 MPH. Coffee was enjoyed in the cockpit and Millie was exploring the shoreline on the lock wall. The Parks Canada employees arrived about 0845 and the lockmaster came to us and said the next lock, Lock 41, would be ready for us. The lines were dropped, the tug turned around and we idled the ¼ mile, through the farm field to the waiting lock. 25 minutes later, Trilogy was entering Lake Simcoe whose reputation of being fierce in moderate winds is respected.
The memory of a very challenging crossing four years ago came flooding back with 3 to 5 foot waves and a rogue wave that hit us hard on the beam. Not today. The fourth largest lake in Ontario, 16 miles long and 19 miles long, was lake smooth merely rippled. For the second time on this trip, the auto-navigation feature was used and the Garmin chartplotter and autopilot took Trilogy to the entrance buoy in 45 minutes while the tug slid along at 16 miles per hour.
Past the marinas, fuel docks and under the highway bridge where the channel is quite narrow, Lake Couchching was entered. The mass of red and green markers kept us out of the shallows and we had the turn and went across the broad lake to the new Port of Orillia Marina where we backed in and docked next to Jim and Lisa’s Kismet. Over the last 10 years, we have accidently met Jim and Lisa in Alabama, Florida, Everett, Des Moines, WA and the Broughton Islands.
The highlight was meeting Ken and Pauline who had sold their boat and came with their new motorhome. We had lunch with them and their friends Mark and Jody. We visited throughout the afternoon and had dinner with Ken and Pauline.
Friday-Saturday-Sunday, August 17-18-19 and the Ranger Tug Rendezvous in Orillia, ON. After breakfast, I took a large crescent wrench to the motor mounts in search of the source of vibration that is felt at idle. The vibration was present when the boat was purchased 18 months ago and only yesterday did it occur to me what the cause might be. Yes, sometimes I am a slow learner. The engine is mounted on four large studs with big nuts under and over the bracket coming from the engine. The culprit was found on the portside, forward mount where the nut under the bracket could be turned a ¾ turn. A test showed the vibration was gone.
Being able to visit with Ken and Pauline was a real treat and we spent part of the morning in their motorhome. By mid-day, about 30 boats had arrived in the marina and there was the full range of models from the 21 that is not made anymore to the 31 with the high command bridge. Tug owners are just friendly and down-to-earth who are willing to share their mistakes and their lessons. I was honored to meet several owners who have read all of my websites and have gained confidence and information. The evening was closed with large dock party and potluck as the weather threatened rain but none fell.
The next day we said goodbye Ken and Pauline. The day was filled with many conversations, looking at boats, answering questions and listening to two presentations. The weather was sunny, cool and drew crowds to the huge car show. Laurie enjoyed the Farmer’s Market. I finished the refinishing of the teak and the improvement was incredible. The day was closed with a catered dinner and then watching a movie on the laptop.
Sunday started slow with breakfast and visiting on the dock. We gave a nearly 90 minute long presentation on the Great Loop that was followed by a catered lunch. The afternoon was full of conversations, questions, demonstrations, and answers. When Frank lost a pair of sunglasses overboard, I tried in vain to find them by diving by the weeds were too thick and the visibility was poor. The blind-man dinghy race was a hoot and the evening was closed with pizza on the dock and great conversations.
Being able to visit with Ken and Pauline was a real treat and we spent part of the morning in their motorhome. By mid-day, about 30 boats had arrived in the marina and there was the full range of models from the 21 that is not made anymore to the 31 with the high command bridge. Tug owners are just friendly and down-to-earth who are willing to share their mistakes and their lessons. I was honored to meet several owners who have read all of my websites and have gained confidence and information. The evening was closed with large dock party and potluck as the weather threatened rain but none fell.
The next day we said goodbye Ken and Pauline. The day was filled with many conversations, looking at boats, answering questions and listening to two presentations. The weather was sunny, cool and drew crowds to the huge car show. Laurie enjoyed the Farmer’s Market. I finished the refinishing of the teak and the improvement was incredible. The day was closed with a catered dinner and then watching a movie on the laptop.
Sunday started slow with breakfast and visiting on the dock. We gave a nearly 90 minute long presentation on the Great Loop that was followed by a catered lunch. The afternoon was full of conversations, questions, demonstrations, and answers. When Frank lost a pair of sunglasses overboard, I tried in vain to find them by diving by the weeds were too thick and the visibility was poor. The blind-man dinghy race was a hoot and the evening was closed with pizza on the dock and great conversations.
Monday, August 20 and end of the boat trip. By 0730 hours, four tugs had left the marina. We would follow Jubilee after saying our good-byes to new and old friends at the rendezvous and caught up to Frank and Callee at the end of Lake Couchiching. We had several options on how far to travel but the weather window was closing and the decision was made to proceed to Midland and the Bay Port Yachting Center that was three locks and 55 miles away.
It would be a fitting end to a great trip with a complete sampling of all that the Trent Severn Waterway has to offer: beautiful lakes, narrow rivers with miles of cottages on each side, cut canals that were narrow, shallow and required boats to talk to each other, two conventional locks and the most entertaining lock ever: the Marine Chute Railway.
Trilogy and Jubilee came into view of the rail tracks that the is the Marine Chute Railway coming into the lake and the rail-like car with a multiple sling machine was launching a boat. The lockmaster called us on the public address horn with “the two blue Ranger Tugs, please come forward.” We were given clear instructions by the multiple employees on the machine and within minutes, Trilogy was lifted out of the water with us aboard. A total of four boats were on the rail car and soon the 7-minute trip across the narrow peninsula was started. The rail car climbed the short hill, crossed the highway, and descended down the other side, keeping us level the whole time and launched us.
After the last lock at Port Severn, Trilogy was in the Georgian Bay and navigated the multiple gates of buoys to stay clear of the shoals and arrived in Midland at 3:40 PM. The marina offers a free shuttle and they took us to the Enterprise Car Rental for a rental car to get to Ohio to retrieve truck and trailer. Afterwards, we had a splendid dinner with Frank and Callee at the Boathouse Restaurant to celebrate the end of this trip.
It would be a fitting end to a great trip with a complete sampling of all that the Trent Severn Waterway has to offer: beautiful lakes, narrow rivers with miles of cottages on each side, cut canals that were narrow, shallow and required boats to talk to each other, two conventional locks and the most entertaining lock ever: the Marine Chute Railway.
Trilogy and Jubilee came into view of the rail tracks that the is the Marine Chute Railway coming into the lake and the rail-like car with a multiple sling machine was launching a boat. The lockmaster called us on the public address horn with “the two blue Ranger Tugs, please come forward.” We were given clear instructions by the multiple employees on the machine and within minutes, Trilogy was lifted out of the water with us aboard. A total of four boats were on the rail car and soon the 7-minute trip across the narrow peninsula was started. The rail car climbed the short hill, crossed the highway, and descended down the other side, keeping us level the whole time and launched us.
After the last lock at Port Severn, Trilogy was in the Georgian Bay and navigated the multiple gates of buoys to stay clear of the shoals and arrived in Midland at 3:40 PM. The marina offers a free shuttle and they took us to the Enterprise Car Rental for a rental car to get to Ohio to retrieve truck and trailer. Afterwards, we had a splendid dinner with Frank and Callee at the Boathouse Restaurant to celebrate the end of this trip.
MOVING AND STORING TRILOGY AND STARTING THE ROAD TRIP HOME
This boat was chosen because it is fairly easy to move quickly to a new location for a new adventure. The decision was made that the next adventure would be a spring time cruise on the Carolina and Georgia coast by exploring the ICW from Brunswick, Georgia to the Dismal Swamp in Virginia.
The first task was to join the tug to the truck and trailer that was in Geneva State Park in Ohio. Tuesday, August 21 would be a 14-hour day where we would make a 630 mile long round trip drive to Geneva, Ohio and back. We went through traffic jams, super heavy rain, had two meals, took an hour long break while a thunderstorm roared through with heavy rain and came back to Millie at 9:30 PM.
The next day, Wednesday, August 22, the rental car was returned and the boat was prepped for removal. After lunch, the nearby ramp was perfectly acceptable for the trailer and Trilogy was powered onto its trailer. The green scum was scrubbed off and the final preparations for the road trip were made. The marina wanted $500 to sling out the tug and pressure wash the hull. We were happy to save the money for something else. We pulled away from Midland at about 2:30 and arrived at the KOA in Westfield, NY five hours and 250 miles later.
Over the next two days, Trilogy was pulled another 915 miles and stayed at KOA's at night. Laurie had worked the phones while traveling and found a boat and RV storage yard on the western side of Brunswick, Georgia to keep Trilogy for the next six months. The storage yard is in a good location that is reasonably protected and has power to run the battery charger and the dehumidifier. 4 hours of preparation, winterizing and packing was done before leaving the tug in the storage yard. Then, the road trip back home to Everett, Washington was begun.
This boat was chosen because it is fairly easy to move quickly to a new location for a new adventure. The decision was made that the next adventure would be a spring time cruise on the Carolina and Georgia coast by exploring the ICW from Brunswick, Georgia to the Dismal Swamp in Virginia.
The first task was to join the tug to the truck and trailer that was in Geneva State Park in Ohio. Tuesday, August 21 would be a 14-hour day where we would make a 630 mile long round trip drive to Geneva, Ohio and back. We went through traffic jams, super heavy rain, had two meals, took an hour long break while a thunderstorm roared through with heavy rain and came back to Millie at 9:30 PM.
The next day, Wednesday, August 22, the rental car was returned and the boat was prepped for removal. After lunch, the nearby ramp was perfectly acceptable for the trailer and Trilogy was powered onto its trailer. The green scum was scrubbed off and the final preparations for the road trip were made. The marina wanted $500 to sling out the tug and pressure wash the hull. We were happy to save the money for something else. We pulled away from Midland at about 2:30 and arrived at the KOA in Westfield, NY five hours and 250 miles later.
Over the next two days, Trilogy was pulled another 915 miles and stayed at KOA's at night. Laurie had worked the phones while traveling and found a boat and RV storage yard on the western side of Brunswick, Georgia to keep Trilogy for the next six months. The storage yard is in a good location that is reasonably protected and has power to run the battery charger and the dehumidifier. 4 hours of preparation, winterizing and packing was done before leaving the tug in the storage yard. Then, the road trip back home to Everett, Washington was begun.